Cattle

Are you having trouble finding your fish in the fish tank due to cloudy water? There can be several different reasons for cloudy water in a fish tank, so let’s take a look at the most common ones. These are debris from new substrate, bacterial bloom, chemical imbalance, or even floating algae.

Most new rocks and decorations will cause cloudy water. If this is the case then your debris should settle and go away on it’s own in a couple of days. Before adding the next decorations or rocks it best to soak them in separate water to get all the loose dirt off before addingthem to your tank.

Another problem that can come from new fish tanks is a bacterial bloom. This can cause the water to have a haze and look rather gray. This can come from overfeeding the fish or dying plants.

A sure sign of a bacteria bloom is when your water is milky and has a very bad odor. Not all bacteria are bad but some bacteria blooms can be deadly to your fish. When the nutrient levels get extremely high the bacteria go ballistic and multiply rapidly.

Be sure to remove all dead or dying plants if you have a bacteria problem. If you are changing fifteen percent of your water and using a siphon to clean debris, this type of haze will not cause the fish harm. But it is essential that you get in under control quickly.

Another thing to look at is whether or not your fish are being overfed. This can also cause the water to get cloudy. Just check the bottom of the tank for leftover food – that would be a sure sign of overfeeding.

Fixing fish tank problems like cloudy water from algae can be a pain because it will be thick and green. One of the best ways to cut down on the amount of algae in a tank is by adding algae eating fish. Keeping your lights on for long periods will encourage algae growth as well as sunlight shining on the tank so make sure to watch the amount of lighting your tank gets to help prevent algae growth.

If none of the above helps you with fixing your cloudy water problems, you should follow with a test kit. The test kit will be used to check the ammonia and nitrate levels of your fish tank water.

Once you have checked the levels, the reading for a normal level for both the nitrate and ammonia is zero. If you have something other than zero then your water quality is bad.

What causes cloudy water in fish tanks with open or semi-open style tanks? Many times these style of tanks could possibly have a stopped up filter causing debris to cloud up your water.

If you are still not sure what is causing the cloudy water in your fish tank, don’t panic. As long as your water doesn’t seem extremely bad and your fish are acting fine, give it a little time. Sometimes if bacteria is the cause the bacteria will kill itself.

This is definitely not advice for all cases. If you are concerned about your fish you should probably remove them until you get your problem under control. It is extremely helpful to have a quarantine tank just for occasions such as these. Regular maintenance will also help you enjoy your fish tank without concern.

Germans have a centuries old tradition of breeding dogs. In fact one of the most well-known German dog breeds there are is the German shepherd,otherwise known as Alsatian, and it is famed and loved around the globe.

However, it is not the only German breed there is, it is just the most famous one. In fact, German dog breeds cover a great assortment of dogs.

For example some German dog breeds make very good protector dogs, Doberman is an example. Very loyal, defensive and protective of their owners, these dogs have very strong territorial instincts. Named after Louis Dobermann, who created the breed out of other purebreeds and some mutts these strong and powerful dogs have an imposing figure with swarthy colors, short and elegant coats. They are extremely intelligent and protective, which is why they need a lot of socialization in their early years in order to get them used to humans.

Other German dog breeds are better for sheep-dogs. The most well-known one being the German Shepherd, otherwise known as Alsatian. These breeds were made fairly lately, in 1900 by Max von Stephanitz. This breed was designed for working and herding sheep, but because of its high intelligence, loyalty, and obedience, it has become very useable in other tasks. it is one of the most used breeds in police and military forces because it can recognize and follow commands better than other large breeds.

Some German dog breeds were even developed for pulling sleds. The best example of this breed is the Eurasier. Of course, today, it is not used to pull sleights anymore, but rather as a companionship pet. Because of its disposition, it doesn’t make a good working pet. It makes an excellent family dog because of its loyalty. It also has the advantage of barking very little, which is good if you don’t want to bother your neighbors. They are also very quiet and calm indoors, but active when outdoors.

Another famous breed is the Great Dane, which despite its name is not from Danish origin, but rather it forms part of the German dog breeds. it’s one of the tallest and biggest dog breeds there are. Despite its size, it is an agile dog that can run very fast and needs daily exercise. It also has a very kind and gentle nature. Nevertheless, dog owners might be advised against this breed if they have small children, as the Great Dane has a weight and strength that might be too much for them. It is also not a good choice for people that don’t have much space or aren’t ready for such a big dog.

Other German dog breeds are there as well, however these are the most representative. In general, German dog breeds are highly intelligent, obedient, protective and loyal. On the other hand, German dog breeds require a lot of space, training and socializing in order to avoid aggressive demeanour.

Wouldn’t it be great if you didn’t have to keep your dog tied all the time when he’s outdoors? Wouldn’t you just love it if you could rely on your dog to stay within the boundaries of your property, and not go chasing after, other dogs, cats, cyclists, pedestrians or even cars?  Wouldn’t it be such a load off your mind if you could let your dog roam free in your front yard without having to worry about him using your neighbor’s yard as a toilet or even destroying your neighbors prized flowers?  The electronic dog fence is just the high tech device that can make those once impossible concepts a reality.   

Unlike a physical fence which is often unsightly and expensive to set up, an electronic fence can be made virtually invisible.  Your dog can be kept within the boundaries of your property without a chain or a physical barrier to hold him back; what’s more, you can even use an electronic fence to mark off areas in your own home that you don’t want your dog to go near, like maybe your wife’s prized flower beds.  The system works by delivering a mild, non-harmful electric shock to a dog whenever a dog gets too near a place where he shouldn’t be.

Here’s how it works: 

1. Wiring your home – The closest thing this system has to a physical fence is a series of thin antenna wires, the wires can be buried or concealed around the perimeter of your property, and in any other place that you would like to be off limits to your dog.  The wires are small, unobtrusive and can be buried, or installed virtually anywhere with simple fittings you can find at hardware stores.
2. The collar- The second hardware component is the electronic collar, you fasten it around the dog’s neck like a regular collar.  The collar detects the antenna wires, and if a dog gets too close to an area were an antenna has been installed, first he will hear a high frequency beeping noise warning him that he is too close to an area that is off limits to him.  If the dog continues to approach the area, the collar will deliver a mild, non-harmful electric shock.
3. Training your dog- The system is extremely useful, particularly for training your dog.  Dogs have the capacity to learn from experience and can pick up rules provided they are laid down consistently enough.  That being said, it is important that you never change the location of the wires you lay out, this will confuse a dog an cause anxiety or depression.  After just a few unpleasant but non-harmful shocks, your dog will get the hang of the system, and the audible warning will save him from more shocks.    

You can actually help the system along with the use of flags, the flags should be uniform and should be placed at the eye level of the dog.  After a while the flags can be done away with.  There are those that have an objection to the use of electric shocks, but the alternative is to keep your dog caged or tied for long periods of time.  Ultimately, it could be argued that an occasional electric shock is far more humane than long hours of confinement.  If you believe that, then the electronic dog fence could be just what you are looking for.

Watching a dog perform his obedience routine with no lead attached to his collar is a thing of beauty! It appears to be magic, the way he anticipates his owner’s moves and wants to just BE there, exactly on the money. Here is how to achieve that doggy ballet of movements.

One secret to good obedience training is never to give your dog the chance to disobey. Make sure he understands the command and what you want him to do, and move toward it with baby steps so he always ALWAYS succeeds. Your happy praise at every turn is what he lives for.

When he is at that comfortable stage on lead where he yawns at every new command, this means he is sure of it and relaxed, then it’s time to move on to removing his lead. This will cause a little anxiety at first because his lead is his life line and guide to pleasing you. So make sure everything you are about to show him off-lead is something he knows VERY well with the lead attached.

On-lead heeling, turning and stopping is very smooth and controlled. Before starting off, instead of hooking the lead into the ring, slip the entire lead through his collar, not in the ring, and wrap the end around your hand so you can eat it up as you walk, until the lead slides completely out of the dog’s collar. He will barely notice this, just keep walking with no change in gait or tone of your voice, act like nothing new is happening.

When you come to a stop and your dog sits predictably at your side like always, pause a moment then PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE! Your dog will look at you funny, as if to say, “What’s the big deal? We do this all the time”. It’s quite funny. That’s when you know it has worked the way it should and your dog has made the transition effortlessly.

As you work, keep the dog close at hand, you do not want him to get the idea he can run off. If he makes the slightest off move, take his collar by the live ring and tug. Remember those little tugs that he dislikes so much he learned quickly how to stay in the exact right spot? Remind him that off-lead has the same controls, so you must be vigilant. If he backslides, go back to on-lead. He will learn quickly that he prefers the independence of off-lead work and to get it he must obey your every command.

As to the long line “Come” command, go back to the short line and leave it on the ground so you can grab it if he does not come to you in a timely fashion. Give him no room to think about disobeying. Gradually extend the distance until he is coming to you at a run totally off-lead. He loves this!

With patience and vigilance, your dog will be just as dependable off-lead as he became on-lead. And you both will enjoy it more!

Dogs and Cats. Eternal enemies, right? Through proper dog obedience training you can teach your animals to live together.

The first mistake that most pet owners make when introducing their pet dogs and cats is to allow them to make their own introductions. This is a mistake! As I stated above, these two species are eternal enemies. You can’t just set one down near the other and expect great results. (Ok, I know that can happen and does happen, but my job here is to teach you about dog training. My version of training calls for prevention with dogs and cats rather than creating a problem and then being forced to fix it. As Mom used to say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.) There is a good deal of prevention that should be used before allowing your dogs and cats to co-exist.

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a home with a dog or vice versa I want you to start out the same way. Start out by using your trusty dog crate. Put your dog in the crate and allow the cat to be in the same room. There are several possible outcomes to this action :
1. Your dog shows complete indifference. This is ideal. If your dog behaves like this you will have a quick transition.
2. Your dog shows fear. This is not ideal but it will make the transition easier than some other outcomes.
3. Your dog shows nervousness and anxiety. He whines, he paces in the crate, paws at the door of the crate, etc. This behavior tells you that he wants out. There is something about that cat that is exciting and he wants to know what it is.
4. Your dog shows overt aggression. He barks, claws at the door of the crate, and he knows exactly what he wants to do with that cat. This is going to be the toughest dog to train, but it can be done.

For the first few days don’t let your dogs and cats near each other. Keep the dog in the crate. This doesn’t mean you need to keep him in the crate 24/7. When you want him out of the crate just make sure that your cat is shut off in another bedroom to avoid contact. What you hope to accomplish with this action is to train your dog to be indifferent to the cat. You want your dog to view the cat as ‘background noise’. The cat is inconsequential, the cat doesn’t matter, there is nothing interesting or exciting about the cat. In other words, your dog is safely tucked away in the crate and casually observes the cat move around the house. For categories 1 and 2 this will be simple. It will take no more than a day or two for your dog to think of your cat as just another ‘thing’ in the house. Categories 3 and 4 will take more training and time.

For categories 3 and 4 you need to attach a negative association to showing cat aggression. To do this, get a spray bottle. Fill the bottle with either plain water, water mixed with lemon juice, or for very stubborn dogs, water with vinegar. At this point, your dog is still tucked away safely in the crate. The next part of training will be conducted while you are sitting near the crate, ready for action. The instant your dog shows aggression (barks at the cat, claws at the door, whines in frustration, etc.) toward the cat spray him in the face with your spray bottle. Every time he shows aggression spray him with the bottle. When he isn’t showing aggression give him soft praise, “Good boy”.

Make sure that your dog never gets a chance to show aggression toward the cat without having a bad experience. This means that you must always be ready with the spray bottle or make sure the cat isn’t near the dog. If you aren’t vigilant and your dog has the chance to show aggression with no adverse consequence, you are training him to show cat aggression.

If you are consistent with this exercise you will soon notice that your dog will show less and less aggression while in the crate, it just isn’t worth the squirt in the face for him. You are on your way to getting your dogs and cats to co-exist.

When your feel comfortable that your dog is indifferent to the cat move on to the next step. As I said, for categories 1 and 2 this is probably one or two days after beginning the crate training. For categories 3 and 4 get your dog to the point where he is indifferent and maintains that attitude for several days if not a week.

The next step is to get your dog out of the crate and get those dogs and cats together at last! You are going to move slowly, though. Put your dog training collar and leash on your dog and make sure that he is always wearing it around the house. Keep your dog near you and allow your cat to be in the room. If your dog makes any move whatsoever to chase the cat, bark at the cat, or perform any of the stereotypical behaviors that dogs and cats do, give him a very strong correction with the leash. You want this leash correction to be a very memorable one so it must be very strong. You want to form a very negative association toward cat aggression.

Be consistent with this training. If you do this properly you will notice that your dog has less and less of a desire to chase after or bark at the cat. As you notice your dog changing his behavior give him more and more freedom by allowing him to be closer to the cat and further away from you. Eventually you will phase out the use of the dog training collar and leash.

Even if your dog isn’t showing aggressive tendencies, never let him chase after the cat in the house, even playfully.

Even some of the hardest to train dogs will respond to the above method. There exist, however, certain dogs that have such strong prey drive that only drastic measures will cure them of their desire to chase and kill cats. For these dogs I employ an electric dog training collar.

Read the instruction manual on proper fitting for your electric dog training collar. With a stubborn dog that needs an electric collar the method is simple. With the collar on his neck and turned on to a high level of stimulus you are going to correct your dog every time he even looks at the cat. As your dog even sneaks a glance at your cat press the button to deliver the correction. Don’t say ‘no’, don’t react in any way, just correct him for looking at the cat. Do this as many times as it takes. Let’s examine this from your dog’s point of view. He wants to get to the cat, wants to chase, wants to kill. But the very act of looking at the cat causes him pain. You don’t tell him anything so he doesn’t associate the correction with you. He soon will learn to believe that the cat is ‘evil’ and he had better not even look at it because it the act of looking causes pain.

As with all training, you must be very consistent. Your dog must never have a successful chance to even chase or want to chase the cat. Be consistent, though, and soon your dogs and cats will be able to co-exist.