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Posts Tagged ‘anti’

postheadericon Many dog owners are unaware that canine bladder enlargement can pose a serious problem if left untreated

Many dog owners are unaware that canine bladder enlargement can pose a serious problem if left untreated. Health issues associated with canine enlarged bladder problems can range from urinary incontinence to complete blockage of the urinary passage. In all cases, from mild to severe, your dog will be uncomfortable and, often, in pain.

There are several causes for canine bladder enlargement. Two of the more common ones are infections and bladder stones. Infections of the urinary tract can take place anywhere along the tract, and when the bacteria reaches the inner bladder, it can produce irritation. This irritation often results in canine bladder enlargement. Stones that form within the canine bladder also will cause inflammation and irritation, thus leading to canine enlarged bladder issues. Knowing the cause of the irritation is the first step to treatment.
 
Dogs suffering from infections are most often treated with antibiotics, dietary change and natural dietary supplements. Owners must keep in mind that once a treatment of antibiotics to fight bacterial infection is prescribed, it must be taken for the full course. In other words, do not stop giving your pet its medicine just because he or she begins to look better or act healthier. Your pet must get the full dose of medicine to ensure that the bacteria causing the infection are completely destroyed. Failure to do so can result in the infection returning, often in a more severe form than before.
 
The key to flushing bacteria from your dog’s system is a normal schedule of urination that is done with the required force. If there is nothing blocking the urinary system and everything is functioning properly, then more water and possibly a supplement can help. For example, an easy way to get your dog to drink more is to switch to canned food since this type of dog food has 80% more water than dry kibble. Supplements known for urinary support can help to correct the PH balance of the urine. If the urine doesn’t have the right PH, it can’t keep bacteria from colonizing as easily as dog’s that have the right PH.

Canine bladder enlargement that is caused by stones is treated differently. There are different kinds of bladder stones that can affect your pet. One type, canine struvite bladder stones, can be dissolved through various treatment options including changing the diet of the animal. A typical change will be to a Prescription Diet such as Hill’s u/d.  The other type of stone, oxalate, cannot be dissolved and usually requires surgical removal. In either case, if the stones become too large, they will not be able to pass through the urinary tract. This can lead to blockage of the tract and is considered a serious health issue as it can be life-threatening. In addition to this, your pet will be in severe pain, and this pain will only increase as time goes by. Large stones, particularly canine oxalate bladder stones will need to be removed surgically.
 
Like a canine urinary tract infection, a canine enlarged bladder due to stones can be prevented by helping the urinary system function properly. Diet and natural supplements will also help the urine flush crystals which get trapped and then form into stones which in turn can cause canine bladder enlargement.   Natural supplements such as Berberis vulgaris can help to restore the bladder and urinary tract by working as a natural anti-inflammatory.

Because canine bladder enlargement can be life-threatening, it is imperative that your vet see your animal as soon as you believe there is a problem. There is simply no way that you can determine the cause of the problem on your own. Lab tests such as urinalysis and x-rays are the only sure way of revealing the underlying cause and the only sure way to ensure the proper treatment is given.

postheadericon Dairy cows are at a vulnerable state when they’re between lactations

Dairy cows are at a vulnerable state when they’re between lactations. This is why a rest period is required in between, primarily because they will be more prone to nutritional issues at this time. The rest period is an important process in a cow’s lactations because this helps to prevent health problems that may give serious problems to the cow’s milk production and future lactations.

It is important to go through the proper drying-off procedure to prevent the emergence of diseases and infections such as mastitis and intramammary infections. It is generally recommended to first withdraw concentrates from the cow’s ration for one to two weeks, and then afterwards to gradually stop milking. As drying-off goes, when the cow isn’t milked for 18 hours or more, the milk glands will stop producing droplets of milk. This will reduce the size of the udder and will start the cow’s dry period of 60 days. Be reminded that during this period the cow should be placed in clean and dry pens and is separated from the lactating cows.

During the dairy cow’s dry period, we should take care to check for diseases and infections that the cows may develop. Three important things to check would be mastitis prevention, vitamin supplementation, and the cow’s body condition.

Mastitis is one of the main concerns of the livestock owners. Mastitis is the inflammation of the creasts or udder, which is caused by infection. This is particularly troubling because it threatens the cow’s milk production and lactation. To stop mastitis we begin by doing intramammary antibiotic treatment. This is to prevent udder infections during the start of the dry period and some other infections from the previous lactation. Check with the veterinarian for the right antibiotic product as well as the antibiotic sensitivity patterns for the mastitis agents in the cows.

Vitamin supplementation is also vital as cows in late pregnancy needs a big amount of vitamins, particularly vitamins A, D, E and selenium. Vitamin A helps in preventing premature and stillborn calves and retained placenta, while vitamin E and selenium helps to enhance the body’s defenses from infectious agents. A balanced vitamin supplemented diet is needed during the cow’s dry period.

Pregnancy and lactation, reproduction and milk production, takes a considerable toll on the cows. They also have a reduced dry matter intake for the first two months of lactation. This is why the cows must have stored body fat as a source of reserve energy, especially during this period.

Lactating cows usually use about 1 kilogram of stored fat each day to produce 7 kilograms of milk. If the cow uses up more than one kilogram, especially in the first 14 days of lactation, ketosis may occur because of the fat that is accumulating in the liver. The interval to the conception will be longer than normal in this case.

To be know more about your cow’s vitamin supplementation and balanced feed intake, always refer to your veterinarian and learn how to evaluate and balance dry cow rations. Dairy cows have become vital in our daily lives that their health problems are also our problems, which makes these prevention methods a must.

postheadericon Dogs are plagued by the illnesses that irritate people, such as diarrhea

Dogs are plagued by the illnesses that irritate people, such as diarrhea. While adult humans can go a few days with diarrhea without worry, a dog cannot. Just like small children, when dogs suffer from too much diarrhea, health levels are at risk. By making sure that you fully understand the problems that can arise, the causes and what you can do to help your dog stay safe.

Two Types

There are actually two different types of diarrhea in dogs. The first is acute diarrhea. This is a temporary issue that is not generally caused by a serious condition or disease. Acute diarrhea is a way for the body of the dog to expel toxins in the body. When dogs eat things such as grass, sticks, dirt, trash or table scraps there is a chance for acute diarrhea to form. The second kind is chronic diarrhea, which is something that needs to be brought to the attention of a vet. Episodes of chronic diarrhea can last for days on end and can bring the dog into a lethargic state. The causes can be food allergies, bacteria infections, inflammatory bowel disease, kidney disease and intestinal parasites.

Treatment

Luckily there is treatment available for dog diarrhea but it does include a trip to the vet. The vet may prescribe antibiotics or other medications depending on the cause of the problem. There is also a good chance that the dog will receive intravenous fluids because of the dehydration that normally comes as a part of the diarrhea. The time it takes for the diarrhea to clear up will depend on the type the dog had and how bad the case was. For cases that are very bad, the vet may need to keep your dog for an extended period of time in order to monitor the healing progress so that things do not end up worse.

Preventing

Of course, you cannot prevent everything that your dog puts into his mouth because you are not able to stare at him every hour or every day. But when you are in control, such as feeding times, you need to make sure that your pet is given a well-balanced, quality diet along with a lot of fresh water. Do not feed your pet table scraps and make sure that you are keeping trash picked up and in a secure place where your dog cannot easily break into it.

Now that you have a better idea of what to watch for, what can be done to fix it and what can be done to prevent it, you should feel a lot better. The more you know about taking care of your dog and any health problems that could arise, the more enjoyable your time with your pet will be. You do not have to worry over every little thing, as long as you know the basics and know when it is time to rush your pet to the vet. When proper steps are taken when a dog falls ill, there is an excellent chance of recovery.

postheadericon As you begin to read through this informative article, give each point a chance to sink in before you move on to the next

As you begin to read through this informative article, give each point a chance to sink in before you move on to the next. Cats are born with claws, the same way that humans are born with fingernails and toe nails.

Cats need claws in order to mark or scratch a specific place or territory that they have been in. Humans need finger nails to, scratch themselves or others, or for opening a letter envelope. Cats basically stretch their agile bodies in order to prepare their muscles when they dig their claws deeply into wood perhaps or a tree, and then they pull back from their hold. Scratching is a basic physiological need of cats. To claw or declaw, that is the question!

So do cats need to be declawed? If cat owners truly care for the welfare of their cats, they would have to think twice on declawing their cats.

Declawing, what is it?

Declawing is done by taking away all the front claws of a cat. In a way this procedure is equal to the amputation of all the finger tips of a human being. For cats this surgery is painful and, for someone who is walking on all fours, terribly unnecessary.

Though the recovery of declawed cats may only take a few weeks or so, its physical and psychological effects could last a cat’s lifetime.

The following are the possible results once a cat has been declawed.

Ouch, ouch and ouch:

Immediately after surgery, declawed cats suffer severe pain, though it is quite impossible to gauge how much pain they are experiencing. Declawed cats could be considered as amputees. Cats usually try to go on with their cat lives even with pain unless the pain eventually becomes unbearable. Although they may look and act normal does not mean they are free from aches.

Complications after the surgery:

After the surgery, declawed cats usually experience one of the following post-surgery effects: presence of abscess, feelings of lameness, claw re-growth. Based on studies performed on declawed cats, it has been found that twenty five percent of them develop various complications. The same result has been found on cats who went under tenectomy. This is also a form of surgery that is currently being offered as an alternative to declawing. It is called this because only the tendons extended on the toes are the ones amputated.

Stiffness of the joints:

Cats that are declawed experience stiffness of the joints since the tendons that manipulate the toes retract because of the surgery. As time goes by, these same joints freeze and ultimately they will no longer be able to extend their toes.

It has been thought though that cats really do not miss their claws since they also “scratch” continually even if they no longer have anything to scratch with. However, this act is really the cats’ way to stretch those frozen joints.

Catarthritis:

Believe it or not, research shows that declawed cats immediately shift the weight of their bodies to the back and onto the larger pad in the front of their feet, away from their toes. The result is still evident despite giving these cats strong anti-pain relievers. If such an effect continues after declawing, the cat will ultimately stress its own joints in the leg, its spine and eventually suffer from arthritis.

Cats who cannot claw, bite:

Since the natural instinct of cats is to claw especially when threatened or scared, in the absence of claws cats are forced to resort to another form of defense – their teeth. Declawed cats that are aggressive naturally are more prone to biting.

Declawed cats have no “nine lives”.

There is a serious risk of death for cats that are declawed. Death could be brought on by the anesthesia they received, or any complications in surgery or hemorrhage.

Declawed cats that resort to biting run the risk of being abandoned by their owners. These cats could then be put in a shelter, and since they turn to biting, the probability of being adopted becomes slim. Usually un-adoptable cats are put to sleep or they are used to train dogs to fight usually as bait.

In summary, cats are extremely and highly trainable to be taught to use a post for scratching instead of common household furniture, rugs or curtains. Though declawing cats is one of the options a cat owner can take, it is basically an unkind and a very animal-unfriendly thing to do.

It all depends on the cat owner whether Kitty is more (or less than) valuable than that expensive Italian rug – the choice is theirs. Understanding this article is a good way to fully appreciate the complexity of this subject.

postheadericon Watching a dog perform his obedience routine with no lead attached to his collar is a thing of beauty

Watching a dog perform his obedience routine with no lead attached to his collar is a thing of beauty! It appears to be magic, the way he anticipates his owner’s moves and wants to just BE there, exactly on the money. Here is how to achieve that doggy ballet of movements.

One secret to good obedience training is never to give your dog the chance to disobey. Make sure he understands the command and what you want him to do, and move toward it with baby steps so he always ALWAYS succeeds. Your happy praise at every turn is what he lives for.

When he is at that comfortable stage on lead where he yawns at every new command, this means he is sure of it and relaxed, then it’s time to move on to removing his lead. This will cause a little anxiety at first because his lead is his life line and guide to pleasing you. So make sure everything you are about to show him off-lead is something he knows VERY well with the lead attached.

On-lead heeling, turning and stopping is very smooth and controlled. Before starting off, instead of hooking the lead into the ring, slip the entire lead through his collar, not in the ring, and wrap the end around your hand so you can eat it up as you walk, until the lead slides completely out of the dog’s collar. He will barely notice this, just keep walking with no change in gait or tone of your voice, act like nothing new is happening.

When you come to a stop and your dog sits predictably at your side like always, pause a moment then PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE! Your dog will look at you funny, as if to say, “What’s the big deal? We do this all the time”. It’s quite funny. That’s when you know it has worked the way it should and your dog has made the transition effortlessly.

As you work, keep the dog close at hand, you do not want him to get the idea he can run off. If he makes the slightest off move, take his collar by the live ring and tug. Remember those little tugs that he dislikes so much he learned quickly how to stay in the exact right spot? Remind him that off-lead has the same controls, so you must be vigilant. If he backslides, go back to on-lead. He will learn quickly that he prefers the independence of off-lead work and to get it he must obey your every command.

As to the long line “Come” command, go back to the short line and leave it on the ground so you can grab it if he does not come to you in a timely fashion. Give him no room to think about disobeying. Gradually extend the distance until he is coming to you at a run totally off-lead. He loves this!

With patience and vigilance, your dog will be just as dependable off-lead as he became on-lead. And you both will enjoy it more!