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Posts Tagged ‘fan’

Summer is when dogs are most at risk of being affected by heatstroke. A dog’s normal body temperature is 100°F to 102.5°F but, unlike humans, dogs do not have sweat glands throughout their skin.  Their only methods for cooling include limited sweat glands on the pads of their feet and nose, and panting. Both of which are inefficient at cooling their body temperature in extreme situations. If a dog cannot effectively dissipate heat, their internal body temperature begins to rise. Once the dog’s temperature exceeds 104° damage to their body’s cellular system and organs may become irreversible. With heatstroke the cells literally cook.

Have you ever said to yourself “I’m just going to run into the store for a minute, my dog will be fine in the car?”  Well, including the time to walk to the store from your car, shopping, and checkout, a minute is never just a minute. A study by the Animal Protection Institute showed that even moderately warm outside temperatures can quickly lead to deadly temperatures inside a closed car. In just a few minutes the internal temperature of a car can easily reach 40° higher than the outside temperature even if parked in the shade with the windows cracked open. Being left in a car is the number one cause of heatstroke in dogs.

Although exercise is essential for a happy and healthy dog, be sure to choose a time of day, during hot months, that is safe for heavy activity and pay close attention to how your dog is responding. Owners with breeds such as Pugs, English Bulldogs, and Boston Terriers need to be especially attentive to their pet’s needs, as they are less tolerant of heat. When you are playing and exercising outside, always make sure your dog has plenty of fresh cool water and access to a shaded area at all times.  Be sure to take frequent breaks and allow your dog to cool down before resuming activity. If you take walks, try to go in the early morning or in the evening and remember to take water with you.

How do you know if your dog may have heatstroke? Some of the symptoms include:

–          A rectal temperature over 104 ° F (needs immediate veterinary attention)

–          A rectal temperature of 106 °F or greater (dire emergency)

–          Excessive panting

–          Bright red gums and tongue

–          Gums feel dry to the touch

–          Thick saliva

–          Excessive shaking

–          Staggering

–          Lying down and refusing or unable to get back up

What to do if you suspect your dog may be affected by heatstroke:

–          Remove your dog from the hot environment

–          Immediately get a rectal temperature if possible

–          DO NOT Submerge or saturate your dog with cold water or ice!! (This may make internal damage more severe).

–          Place cool, wet rags or washcloths on major blood vessels such as the jugular vein (along the neck) and the femoral artery (inside the rear leg). Replace often.

Slightly dampen your dog with lukewarm water and place directly in front of a fan to safely wick away heat- Do not soak!

–          Offer your dog cool water to drink but do not force water into the mouth

–          Most effective treatment is with IV fluids and medications administered by your veterinarian!

–          Call or visit your vet right away – even if your dog seems better. Internal damage might not be obvious to the naked eye, so an exam is necessary (and further testing may be recommended).

Some dogs can fully recover from heatstroke if it is caught and treated early by a veterinarian. Prognosis of treatment for heatstroke is significantly affected by how high the body temperature reaches, and the length of time the dog was exposed to dangerous levels. A delay in treatment for two hours may result in a 70% chance of death. Sadly, many dogs affected by heatstroke do not survive. Prevention is the key to keeping your dog safe during the warm weather.

Household pets are susceptible to a multitude of dangers lying around the house and even some in their own bird cage. Like all other pets, pet birds are also subject to a number of risks. This is mainly due to their small size, sensitive respiratory system, fast metabolism and in the case of parrots, their curiosity to explore everything around them with their beaks. Owners are responsible for their pets safety and should take the necessary precautions to prevent any accidents. Here is a list of the top dangers faced by household pet birds. Starting with the most obvious, birds have a special dietary need and cannot digest most food processed by other pets and humans. High sugar or salt concentrations are inappropriate. Fatty foods are also discouraged. Chocolate is to be avoided at all costs as it is toxic not only to birds but also to other pets in general. Water is the preferred beverage choice. Caffeinated and alcoholic drinks are very dangerous!

Because of their sensitive respiratory system, birds are extremely sensitive to poisons and toxins. Some dangerous contaminants from cleaners, industrial fumes, and pesticides are fatal for birds. Strong and aromatic odours can also kill birds. Aerosol body sprays, Nail polish, cigarette smoke, and paint fumes are to be avoided. If, as typical, one dedicates a special spot for his bird cages inside his car garage, he should take care not to start his car inside the garage as carbon monoxide can lead to respiratory diseases. One should make special mentioning of non-stick coatings, which emit particular fumes that are toxic to birds when overheated. These coats are usually found on non-stick cookware, irons, space heaters, blow dryers and more. As many birds chew on many things small enough for their beaks, one must place safer bird toys, which are made from sanitised and toxin-free plastics or woods like eucalyptus and manzanita in order to avoid poisoning from ingesting or biting the toys.

Birds, which are left, to roam around the house are also at a risk of falling into sources of open water such as in toilets, sinks, buckets and water bowls. Even worse, they can fall into hot pots of water sitting on stoves in the kitchen, so it is generally preferred not to let birds out of their bird cages in kitchens. Ceiling fans pose a major threat to flying birds and have been the cause of several serious injuries and fatalities. Birds tend to get very agitated and nervous with moving things above them and may become stressed out of a ceiling fan running close to their bird cage. Other electrical appliances, which might not pose a direct threat to a bird, might have an exposed electrical cord. As most birds explore with their beaks, electrical cords can pose a danger if bitten. Cords should be concealed as much as possible using corrugated plastic tubing for example.

Even bird toysspecifically designed for parrots and other birds may not be totally safe. Apart from being made out of toxic materials, toys can be broken down by bigger parrots and parts swallowed. Remember that even if a particular toy looks pretty durable at the time of purchase,bird toys don’t last forever and should be checked from time to time. Rope toys can also cause birds to get tangled up in them and get strangled as a result. Finally, birds are rarely known for social interaction with many other pets and birds, especially cats. They can attract the predatory instinct of other animals and if attacked, any bites or scratches can become fatal to a bird. Therefore, cats or dogs around the house can be a risk to pet birds even if they are in their bird cage.

Shop and buy small, medium, or a large bird cage for you pet parrot and pet birds. All types and sizes of parrot cages and bird toys for your pet birds – http://www.birdcagesrepublic.com/

One question that more people these are asking these days is how to make their own dog food. There have been some frightening revelations when it comes to the ingredients contained in most commercial dog foods that pet owners are turning towards the natural way to feed their pet. There are certainly a lot of advantages to making your own dog food, yet at the same time it can be a time consuming chore.

A lot of commercial dog foods aren’t giving your pet the nutrients it needs and, pet food isn’t covered under the same regulations that human food is. It is no secret, and there is factual evidence out there, that shows that some brand name dog foods are using loop holes in order to save money, while still being able to claim that their food is healthy and nutritious. The fact is, there are a lot of chemicals and preservatives used that have been linked to causing a number of diseases and conditions that are detrimental to your pets health.

The truth is, if you starting feeding your pet home made food, you will notice a great increase in their energy levels and overall happiness. It is something you can see visually, and some times that’s enough to motivate people into doing things.

One of the biggest reasons why people don’t make their own dog food is that they’re unsure of the best foods that they should be feeding their pets. Most of us haven’t taken courses in pet nutrition and therefore don’t know what vitamins and minerals our pets need to live a happy and healthy life. Luckily, today we have numerous guides available that will not only teach you which foods are most beneficial to your dog, but also contain a wide range of healthy and nutritious recipes that are easy to make, and will give your family pet the absolute best diet when it comes to eating properly.

That’s why I highly recommend investing in one of these fantastic guides as they will greatly simplify the task of creating your own dog food, and let your dog become more happy, healthy and live for much longer.

I would not mind betting that like me, you thought that to build a poultry shed would be a pretty difficult thing to do. Well, you might find that you are in for a pleasant surprise, just as I was. I have found so much information, that to build a poultry shed is far more simple than you can even begin to imagine.

I had looked at buying a readymade coop but, was pretty shocked at how expensive they were. I mean, to buy the same amount of materials that would be involved in building it at my local DIY store really would not cost anywhere near the amount that the store was charging.

I guess that they are getting you to pay for somebody else having measured and sawn the timber for you. I really do not think that is good value for money somehow, especially when I then realised that it would come flat packed and needed me to get a screw driver to assemble it anyway.

It would seem that there really has been a massive renewed interest worldwide in chicken keeping. I cannot say for sure why this might be, but perhaps we, the consumer have realised that to be able to enjoy fresh tasting free range eggs from our own chickens is far more achievable now than it ever has been and with all this poultry keeping knowledge so readily available you can see how and why this has happened.

With so many easy to follow hints, tips and tricks especially on DIY chicken housing so easily accessible at the touch of a button, you may end up wishing you had taken up keeping chickens in your own backyard long before now. Having done a bit of research on, what I can only assume were once closely guarded poultry housing secrets it really looks as easy as 123 to provide your poultry with fantastic housing.

If you can follow some simple instructions which guide you through from beginning to end and can use a screw driver, I promise you now that you are on to a sure fire winner. You do not have to think, just do and how simple is that?

The flexibility in building your own coop is beyond compare. I could not find a single readymade coop that met all of my needs and believe me I tried. To be able to provide the right amount of ventilation to keep the housing well aired and enough ramps, walkways and the necessary perches was such a find.

To build a poultry shed will give you such a sense of satisfaction, knowing that you have provided such durable accommodation to house your chickens, that it will keep them safe and secure from predators as possible  and that you have been able to build a poultry shed so cost effectively too I find totally amazing.

Building poultry sheds can be simple and great fun when you are given the correct information. They are practical, easy to assemble and can save you a fortune.

There are dozens of poultry related websites that claim to offer visitor’s great poultry shed plans, but few sadly seem to offer little more than a single basic design. However one of the best poultry shed design websites online that has been endorsed by hundreds of chicken breeders and owners worldwide so far contains a wealth of chicken housing data and related information that is well worth reviewing. (http://www.chickenhousekit.com)

When trying to find the right horse, it is important to be careful to avoid getting an animal that does not suit you. When you have a horse that is too strong, too green or even too well trained you are over-horsed. This means that you have a horse that is beyond your skill level.

It is not uncommon for riders to become over-horsed. There are many reasons for this. Sometimes a rider overestimates her skills and buys a horse that she cannot manage. Other times a parent or a coach is pushing too hard and puts a rider onto a horse she is not ready for yet. Whatever the reason, it is important to find a horse that fits the rider’s skill level as soon as possible, before the rider looses confidence, and possibly looses interest in riding at all.

When looking for a horse, be sure to carefully evaluate your skill level. There is nothing wrong with getting a horse that will challenge you, but you need to be careful not to go too far.

A common mistake is to choose a horse that is too big or too strong for the rider. With more and more riders feeling that they need a 16.2hh + horse, it is not unusual for a short rider to end up on a huge horse. Because small riders do not have the length of leg, or the weight to manage the large horse, many become intimidated.

Another mistake is to buy a fancy show prospect when you really only need a mid-level horse. Horses who are bred to compete in the upper levels generally have a more difficult temperament that horses who were bred for the lower levels. This is because they are athletes. They are built, mentally and physically, to be competitive. When not adequately challenged they will turn to other things to keep their attention. This can quickly intimidate the rider, who then backs off even more, making the issues even worse.

Some riders will try to save money by buying a green horse, when they don’t have the experience to train him. These riders do their best to train their horse, but run into troubles when the horse goes beyond their experience and starts misbehaving. While some riders will turn to trainers to help, this is not always financially possible. The horse remains uncooperative, and becomes unpleasant to ride. Sometimes these perfectly nice horses, who would have been fine with proper training, wind up getting dumped due to training issues.

Even worse is when riders choose to buy a weanling or a yearling because they are cheap. The rider does not know what to do with the baby and does not put in the handling time the baby needs to know his place. Other times the rider spends a lot of time with the baby, but does not set up boundaries, creating dangerous situations. Many riders grow impatient with waiting for the baby to grow up and start them under saddle too soon, winding up with flighty, underdeveloped horses who are not ready mentally or physically for the work they are asked to do.

If you are going to buy a horse, be sure to buy something that fits your current skill level. Choose something that will challenge you, but be prepared to get help as soon as problems arise. Being over-horsed is terribly unpleasant and can ruin your long-term riding career.