Cattle

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Wouldn’t it be great if you didn’t have to keep your dog tied all the time when he’s outdoors? Wouldn’t you just love it if you could rely on your dog to stay within the boundaries of your property, and not go chasing after, other dogs, cats, cyclists, pedestrians or even cars?  Wouldn’t it be such a load off your mind if you could let your dog roam free in your front yard without having to worry about him using your neighbor’s yard as a toilet or even destroying your neighbors prized flowers?  The electronic dog fence is just the high tech device that can make those once impossible concepts a reality.   

Unlike a physical fence which is often unsightly and expensive to set up, an electronic fence can be made virtually invisible.  Your dog can be kept within the boundaries of your property without a chain or a physical barrier to hold him back; what’s more, you can even use an electronic fence to mark off areas in your own home that you don’t want your dog to go near, like maybe your wife’s prized flower beds.  The system works by delivering a mild, non-harmful electric shock to a dog whenever a dog gets too near a place where he shouldn’t be.

Here’s how it works: 

1. Wiring your home – The closest thing this system has to a physical fence is a series of thin antenna wires, the wires can be buried or concealed around the perimeter of your property, and in any other place that you would like to be off limits to your dog.  The wires are small, unobtrusive and can be buried, or installed virtually anywhere with simple fittings you can find at hardware stores.
2. The collar- The second hardware component is the electronic collar, you fasten it around the dog’s neck like a regular collar.  The collar detects the antenna wires, and if a dog gets too close to an area were an antenna has been installed, first he will hear a high frequency beeping noise warning him that he is too close to an area that is off limits to him.  If the dog continues to approach the area, the collar will deliver a mild, non-harmful electric shock.
3. Training your dog- The system is extremely useful, particularly for training your dog.  Dogs have the capacity to learn from experience and can pick up rules provided they are laid down consistently enough.  That being said, it is important that you never change the location of the wires you lay out, this will confuse a dog an cause anxiety or depression.  After just a few unpleasant but non-harmful shocks, your dog will get the hang of the system, and the audible warning will save him from more shocks.    

You can actually help the system along with the use of flags, the flags should be uniform and should be placed at the eye level of the dog.  After a while the flags can be done away with.  There are those that have an objection to the use of electric shocks, but the alternative is to keep your dog caged or tied for long periods of time.  Ultimately, it could be argued that an occasional electric shock is far more humane than long hours of confinement.  If you believe that, then the electronic dog fence could be just what you are looking for.

Among the animals of equal or greater strength, the horse is the most useful to man because of its superior nervous development. In fact, it has almost perfect control of its muscles and bones.

This perfect control gives horses instant response to any outside stimulus. For example, if you strike a horse with a whip you get an immediate action of some kind, which depends on the breed of horse.

It is because of this highly developed nervous organization that the horse has displaced all other animals who are able to carry heavy loads among civilized people.

But here’s a common problem:

The horse is often given credit for more intelligence than he deserves. Many would even place him on a level of reason with the man. Perhaps this is because of the demeanor of most horses, but it is a fallacy.

Now don’t get me wrong. Horses aren’t Stupid, but THE HORSE CANNOT REASON. It may be able to act on how you touch it, or speak to it, but this is a learned response after you spend many hours with your horse. If you notice at first, these interactions do not have the desired response with your horse, and it is only with firm interaction that they learn the meaning you intend.

I make this statement, not merely as a theory, but as a fact based upon more than twenty years of close observation and contact with many thousands of horses.

In the area of intelligence and reason, there is a vast gulf between man and horse – a gulf so wide that no horse will most likely ever cross it. You need to understand that horses look smart, but need time to learn what we are intending, and take that into account if you want to be effective in training your animal!

Since the horse cannot talk and does not understand what you say, you will have to make your wants known to him in the first place through the sense of touch. Later this method of communication will be merged into that of voice and motions. As for instance, a touch of the whip will mean at first “Go on”; later a motion of the whip will have the same effect, and at last the word “Get-up” will mean the same thing.

When you talk to the horse through the sense of touch, take into consideration the nervous organization. To some horses a sharp stroke of the whip may be very cruel, because of the extreme sensitiveness of their nerves, or being thin skinned as many term it, when to another horse the same stroke would only attract attention.

Watch your horse closely so that you may know and act accordingly. You cannot train a horse and put only half your attention to your work. Be alert and keen, ready to take advantage of any sign of submission or wilfulness.

Want to know more? You can unlock the secrets to training any horse — you just need to take that first step today.

Birds can be attracted to your home and surroundings simply by offering food, water and shelter, the three most important ingredients for all living creatures. I want to share with you how I have crated a paradise in my own backyard that is loaded with birds year round.

First-You must discover what species of birds live in your area. You also must know that some of these species you discover will come and go depending on what time of year it is and whether they are migrant birds or birds that live near you year round. There are several ways to go about this discovery but one of the easiest ways to get this information is from your local Audubon Society. They will most likely have a bird list specific to your area and loads of information on those specific birds.

Second-You must find out which species of birds live in your specific habitat. Do live in a wooded area? Is it a mixed forest with conifers and deciduous trees or maybe more of a savanna with grasses and Oak trees? Do you live on a farm in the country or in a big city neighborhood? Different species of birds are adapted to different environments and this will be a defining factor in your decisions on which birds you want to attract to your yard and what kind of feeders and birdhouses you will put up. A good field guide to birds will be invaluable in this respect.

Third-So you know which birds live in your area and may be attracted to your yard in your specific habitat, now what? You need to put up some bird feeders! Birds can live very easily without you putting up bird feeders but you want to see them don’t you? If you want to see them, you have to get them closer to your house. This requires that you put up some bird feeders, but which ones? There are so many different kinds.
The best thing to do is put up a variety of feeders if they are appropriate for your habitat. Here are a few suggestions. A starling-resistant suet feeder, a house or tube feeder for sunflower seed, a bluebird feeder, a wire mesh cage feeder for peanuts, a nectar feeder, a tube feeder for thistle, a stationary or tray fruit feeder and a house or platform feeder for millet.

Fourth-Whatever types of feeders you install, make sure they are safe from predators. Cats are the number one killer of songbirds. Make sure your bird feeders are safe from cats or better yet, keep your cats indoors. If you have squirrels around, make sure you mount your bird feeders so the squirrels can’t get to them or purchase squirrel proof bird feeders.

Fifth-Water is essential for birds. Not only do most birds need water to survive, they love to bath in it! Even without putting up bird feeders, you can attract many birds by installing a bird bath or fountain in your yard. If you have the choice, install a fountain or a waterfall as moving water will not only attract more birds but you will also attract other wildlife as well.

Sixth-Shelter for your birds. If you want to enjoy bird watching to the fullest degree, you must put up birdhouses. The thrill of watching birds go through their mating rituals and raising their young is unforgettable. There are birdhouses for all different species of cavity nesting birds. It is important to note however that not all birds use birdhouses. It is also important to choose only birdhouses that are safe and built specifically for the species of bird you want to raise.

Seventh-Landscape for the birds. If you have the ability to landscape around your house, use native plants that attract wild birds. You can get a list of plants for your area from a local nursery or arbor society.

For as long as I can remember, clay based cat litter was the standard. Clay based cat litter was always inexpensive and reasonably effective. The trick was to keep the nasty bits scooped out and change the litter at a reasonable interval. When to change the litter was fairly easy to figure out since the clay would absorb only so much urine. Several cats I have had the pleasure to own over the years were not shy about telling when they thought it was time to clean the litter box.

Prior to the introduction of clay cat litter, owners of inside cats relied on a wide variety of materials. Shredded newspaper, sand, and even plain dirt served the purpose but had some obvious drawbacks. None of these materials was very absorbent and needed to be changed often. As any owner of an inside cat will tell you, controlling the inevitable order from the cat box was difficult.

As with most product inventions and improvements, the inventor was responding to a need. The introduction of what came to be commonly known as kitty litter was not much different. Introduced in the late nineteen forties, clay based cat litter changed the way people, and cats, thought about controlling cat waste. Compared to other soil types, the composition of clay soil makes it naturally absorbent. In its natural state, clay has a very high moisture content, sometimes to the point of saturation. Now this hardly sounds like a substance that would make a great filler for the cat box.

What makes clay based cat litters work is what happens between the time the clay is collected and when it lands in the litter box. Raw clay would be dried, usually in a hot kiln. The process of kiln drying and baking is used in the production of clay pottery and the drying of milled timber. Baking the clay removes a significant amount of moisture. As water is removed from the clay, the volume shrinks and what remains is a substance that is once again capable to absorbing moisture. Its as simple as that and an entire industry sprang up around that one simple fact.

So for almost fifty years, clay based cat litter ruled the cat box. Along the way, attempts were made to add odor control ingredients, including aftermarket products. Since cat urine would turn mildly acidic over time, many folks would combine simple baking soda with the clay litter. The baking soda acted to change the Ph of the urine, neutralizing the acid and reducing odor. Other aftermarket products used combinations of various chemicals, including perfumes and odor neutralizers. These products were easy to use and were just sprinkled into the litter.

Just as we thought the science of cat litter had reached its zenith, along comes scoopable litter. It clumped, it lumped and turned the undesirable chore of cleaning the cat box into something almost bearable. Loaded with deodorizers, this unique product remained in granulated state until being used by the cat. The granules adhere to the urine and feces, encapsulating it in a clump. Using a common litter scoop, the waste is easily removed, leaving the clean litter behind.

The convenience of scoopable cat litter does come with a price. While clay based litter is relatively inexpensive, some brands of scoopable litter can be pricey. The added expense is mitigated somewhat since less scoopable litter is needed to keep the litter pan clean. Still, there are some cat owners who are concerned about the chemicals used to in the production of scoopable cat litter.

In response to some of those concerns, a market has sprung up for scoopable cat litter that uses natural enzymes to control odor. New brands of natural litter stress the low dust and absence of strong chemical deodorizers. Clay is a very rugged substance and will not break down.

Without clay as a base, producers of natural cat litter advertise their products as biodegradable and even flushable. While filling the local sewer system with used cat litter would not be my first disposal choice, it is nice to know that it will breakdown naturally.

The origin of Chinchillas can be traced to Chile, a South American country. These furry creatures particularly originated from the Andes Mountains. The natural Chinchilla habitat includes rocks and burrows. Their agility allowed them to jump high and live in such highly elevated areas. Since they live in the mountains, Chins have to deal with different kinds of threats particularly predators like snakes, bird of preys, and canines. Like most animals, Chinchillas have different defence mechanisms to protect themselves from various threats. They usually spray their urine and release fur in order to escape their predators.

Chinchillas feed on a diet consisting of insects, seeds, and plants. Those that have the cage as Chinchilla habitat thus are often required by experts to be given with a hay-based diet. Giving other food to these pets may give them problems with their digestive tract. In their natural habitat, Chinchillas often group themselves into herds. Like most animals, Chins have the ability to breed at any point in the year.

Given their smooth fur and lovable personality, Chins have become popular choices as pets. Many people particularly in the United States choose Chins as their pets. Thus a cage can be considered as a Chinchilla habitat. However pet owners should look into several things to ensure that the cages they have for their Chins are appropriate and safe enough for these little creatures.

The foremost thing to consider when choosing a cage for a Chin is the height. The cage should be tall enough for the Chins to scale the bars, and wide enough for them to run around. Since Chins are very active when inside their cage, a cage should have ledges and shelves. The cage to be considered a safe Chinchilla habitat should have wire-based sides since Chins usually chomp on them. Having wood bases can result to poisoning on the part of the animal. Chins should also not be brought to the pet owner’s bedroom since they are hyperactive at night, and thus will only disturb any person during sleep.

In their natural habitat, Chinchillas love to climb and run around. The same goes for captive Chins. Pet owners should give their Chins enough time to roam around outside their cages. This should be done at night, when the animals are most active. An ideal Chinchilla habitat such as the cage should also have several ramps where these animals can play around. Pet owners should make sure that the ramps are strong enough to carry the load of the Chins.

Any pet owner who wants to keep Chins as pets should realize that Chins can be very hyperactive, and thus they will have their hands full in controlling these pets. By nature, Chins are inquisitive and curious. Giving toys and treats is a great way of keeping the Chins busy. But toys should not be of the poisonous kind such as plastic types.

Keeping the Chinchilla habitat clean, safe, and filled with treats should keep these furry creatures satisfied and happy inside their cages.