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I must have been asked this very simple question more times than I care to remember so lets cut to the chase.

In this example we will use reward based training for your puppy.

These techniques will also work with an adult dog.

• Start the training as SOON as you have bought your puppy do NOT leave it a few days and then start training.
• Remember that a puppy will have zero attention span – One minute he will be giving you those puppy dog eyes gazing at you lovingly and next he will be attacking your shoes.
• Be patient – he’s just a baby.
• If you are working with an adult or older puppy/dog – remember you may be dealing with years of bad habits, and will take time to unlearn or undo these habits. Be patient while he learns your new rules.
• You may find the initial training a bit tedious – but stick with it.

 Ok lets get the environment ready for the training process – SUPERVISION

• You are in charge – so get the environment right – this will tell your puppy/dog who’s in charge and set the right tone. You don’t want him to have the chance to practice behavior you don’t want.
• If your puppy/dog never has the chance to eliminate inside you are creating a positive, consistent education environment.
• He will get into the habit of going outside to eliminate and you will reward him every-time.
• You have created the environment so it;s up to you to make sure that he never has the chance to eliminate in the House/environment.
• To prevent accidents – you need to watch him like a hawk – If you have a toy breed it won’t take a second for him to pee – so I mean it watch him like a hawk.
• For every accident that your puppy/dog has inside he is practicing behavior that YOU don’t want – and you are both taking a step backwards.
• Even a few seconds without supervision could set back the training process- I know it sounds daunting but it will work.
• Once you have created your environment, it will become a habit for you to watch your dog and manage the environment.
• You will be learning the routine together

In part two I will go further into the puppy training process and will introduce the crate.

Have you moved into a new house and felt a bit lost? You’re glad to be there, but it’s all new and different and a little stressful. Bringing a new cat home for the first time can be stressful for your cat as well as for your family. The cat is surrounded by all new things, all new people. There are strange smells and sounds and maybe strange new animals. You and your family don’t know how the cat will take to your home and aren’t sure if they should try to pick it up, try to play with it, or let it wander for a while. You want to do what’s best for your cat from the start so that you don’t have problems in behavior later on. There are some tips to making sure that the process is less frightening for everyone.

Think about that first day in your new home and empathize with your cat. Take things slow. Your children will be all excited about this new pet and will want to play, but remind them that the cat is nervous as they sometimes are in a new situation. If they scare him, it might take longer for the cat to trust them. It helps if you have prepared your house before bringing your pet home. Have a room set aside where you can put his litter box. A bed, food and water should be in another part of the room and he should feel free to roam without being disturbed by children or other pets. Give him at least a half hour alone before checking to see that he’s OK. Go in and check again from time to time so that he gets used to you, but don’t force him to get too close just yet. Spend a few days increasing the time you spend in the room and gradually start to approach him or sit on the floor and let him come to you. You will gain his confidence by getting down to his level, making yourself smaller, and not looking him in the eye. Gradually add a toy or some string and let him decide when it’s time to play.

After your cat is comfortable around you, you can add other family members. Other pets should only be brought in after Kitty has bonded with you and should always include your supervision. After three or four days, once you’re sure the cat is secure and happy to be touched and stroked by you and your family, you can you begin to give your cat freedom to enter the rest of the house. Let your cat take it at his own pace and be sure he has access to “his” room if he needs to have some time away from everyone. Cats will usually adapt quickly to their new home but some will take a little longer. A lot will depend on their last experience. It’s important to let your cat take his time and gain confidence at first even though it may seem slow. You need to let your cat trust you and feel safe in his new environment so that he can be secure and happy. Once that bond is established you will have a lifetime of companionship for you, your cat, and your family.

Your pet guinea pig depends on you completely for it’s food and nourishment. To ensure your furry little friends is as happy and healthy as he possibly can be you have to make certain he’s eating the suitable varieties of guinea pig food and getting every one of the necessary nutrients and vitamins. This information will make it easier to learn all you need to know to become a knowledgeable and loving guinea pig keeper.

The main food for your guinea pigs are going to be pellets. Young guinea pigs, under 10 months old, should be fed alfalfa hay-layered pellets. However, right after they reach 10 months of age you’ll want to switch them to timothy hay-layered pellets because alfalfa hay has elevated levels of calcium and high doses of calcium usually aren’t good for adult guinea pigs. A superb guinea pig pellet also needs to be hard and firm, making it necessary for your pigs to bite, chew and gnaw through it. Guinea pigs naturally enjoy chewing and gnawing on things so your little piggies will definitely love eating their hard pellets.

Ensure that you get pellets which are specifically formulated for guinea pigs and it is therefore a complete food, meaning it has each of the right nutrients in it. This includes an additional dose of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) which happens to be an important supplement to your guinea pig’s health. As in humans, ascorbic acid will not be naturally produced in guinea pigs. Deficiencies in vitamin C might cause your pet to develop scurvy. Should the pellet food that you’re feeding your guinea pig not be fortified with ascorbic acid, supplements can be bought in pet stores and can be put into their drinking water. Make sure you give your furry friend guinea pig approximately 20mg of ascorbic acid supplements every single day.

Guinea pigs also love to eat fresh vegetables, and vegetables are an essential supply of nutrients and vitamins. Leafy green vegetables help provide your pig with additional vitamin C. A summary of healthful vegetables that your guinea pig will like comprise watercress, turnip greens, swiss chard, spinach, mustard spinach, kale, dill weed, dandelion greens, cabbage, beet greens, cilantro, collards, and chicory greens.

I have discovered that the best food bowl for your pet is a heavy ceramic bowl for the reason that it’s hard to tip over while eating, and also the sides of the bowl needs to be high enough to hold back all dirty and contaminated bedding. Your guinea pigs needs a constant source of clean, fresh water, and the best way to make water available is by using a water bottle equipped with a “sipper” tube. Take care to always keep your guinea pig’s water bottle clean for the reason that can have a tendency to become contaminated and blocked as the guinea pig chews on the end of the sipper tube which often can backwash food particles up the tube.

This should be almost everything you might want to know about guinea pig food and feeding your furry and friendly companions. For anyone who is new to caring for guinea pigs then there are a lot of things you’ll want to understand about guinea pig care. So, click here now to pick up even more tips to ensure excellent guinea pig health.

There was a constant flurry of activity during the last few days of our life in Korea. Mom was feverishly sorting through every item we had accumulated as a family and the keepsakes she acquired from her life before a husband and four kids. Whatever she decided to take for our new life in the United States had to fit in one of the large, multicolor plastic bags or the five over-sized suitcases. Everything else we had to leave behind, including our dogs Super and her pup Gome.

Super, who was named after Superman, was a wonderful mutt with an air of confidence and regality. She was gentle, smart and obedient, which were important traits to have for a dog to survive in Korea those days. She was only seven weeks old when dad brought her home to four overly excited kids and one disapproving wife. Mom reluctantly allowed her stay on the condition that she didn’t bark incessantly and didn’t destroy anything, a tall order for a puppy. Super not only kept to these guidelines, she earned the love and respect of my mom.

Super didn’t whine or bark unless to alert us of someone at the door. She didn’t chase small animals, drag in dead things or roll around in poop. She didn’t chew on shoes or the rice paper doors, and most importantly, she knew when to stay out of the way. When mom was busy with chores, Super sat in a corner until the housework was finished. She was one of the smartest dogs I have known and the only dog mom
ever loved.

Gome, which is a Korean word for bear, was the opposite of Super. He was big and furry and always ready to give you a wet, sloppy kiss. His thick clumsy paws abounded with energy he couldn’t control, and he was always in mom’s way. I think if it wasn’t for Super, Gome would have been gone before his first birthday.

Mom pushed off giving our dogs away until just a few days before she completely shut down the only home I remember in Korea. The day they came to take Super and Gome away, mom was standing on the front porch, her head down, with her right hand to her face and her left arm folded across her stomach. Her shoulders were heaving. When she looked up briefly, I could see that her face was soaked with tears. I don’t remember anyone else being there. I was too focused on mom and the dogs.

Super was in her favorite corner and Gome was curled up in the middle of the courtyard. Two sprightly guys came in carrying two leashes. One of the guys put a leash on Gome and led him out. Gome happily followed. The second guy put the leash on Super and had to tug her out of the corner. As he was pulling her across the courtyard, Super plopped her butt on the ground and her legs went limp. The guy had to drag her out. As the guy towed her away, she kept looking back at us, especially mom.  Her sharp eyes were furrowed and you could see the hurt and confusion on
her face.

Mom continued to keep her face down and was now sobbing uncontrollably. Super and Gome were gone. After Super, my mom has not opened her heart to
another dog.

Shortly after that day we were on a jumbo jet headed for America, a place as I was told, where the streets were lined with gold.

Benefits of Using Puppy Kongs by Kevin Gawricki

Puppy Kongs provide s for those special needs of your new puppy. Here are just a few reasons for using Puppy Kongs.

They will assist in teething.

They help in healthy development of your dog’s mouth.

Kong Puppy toys help sooth sure gums.

Most important they promote play.

Make sure to always supervise your dog while they are playing with their toys. Always remember NO DOG TOY is INDESTRUCTIBLE.

Puppy Kongs are formulated for puppies. Always remember after 6-9 months to replace the Puppy Kong with adult strength red or black Kongs.

Article written by Kevin Gawricki

Kevin is owner of Dog Gone Good Stuff which he founded because of the need for a place that caters specifically to dogs and their owners specific needs. Please feel free to visit Dog Gone Good Stuff for all your dogs needs. Web address www.doggonegoodstuff.com