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Your sweet and cuddly puppy can grow up to be strong and healthy, if you choose organic puppy food for it. Ensuring that your puppy eats right is your responsibility and because you love it, you must choose the best. You might be wondering what makes organic food, ‘the best’ for your puppy. In that case you surely need to read further.

You should understand that a puppy’s need for food is very different from that of an adult dog. The two reasons behind this are:

• This is your puppy’s formative period. So, you simply cannot feed it anything and everything. Just as a human baby is selectively fed during infancy, you need to do the same for your puppy.
• The digestive capacity of the puppy is not yet fully developed. So, it might not be tolerant towards every type of commercial dog food.

The problem with most commercially available brands of puppy food is their content. To increase their profitability, most manufacturers use animal by-products as the main component instead of meat. It has been proven that animal by-products are not suitable for human consumption. So, how they can be right for your puppy?

There is also the threat of chemicals such as artificial flavors and preservatives in ordinary puppy food. Unless specifically mentioned on the package, you can even find traces of pesticides and herbicides in non-organic puppy food!

Organic puppy food, on the other hand, guarantees the absence of toxins and animal by-products. So, you can be really sure that your puppy is eating healthy food and getting a daily dose of proteins and vitamins. Organic food is easy to digest and contains chicken, fish, eggs and vegetables such as carrots, spinach, celery and garlic. The better brands even contain pro-biotic elements, which aid digestion.

So, go for organic puppy food because your puppy deserves the best!

The Deerhound is one of the most ornamental of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry.  

From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief’s larder.

Head:-

The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.  

Ears:-

The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like  the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without  losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be  soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller  it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there  is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip.  Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.  

Neck and shoulders:-

The neck should be long that is, of the length  that befits the Greyhound character of the dog.  The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.

Stern:-

Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.

Eyes:-

The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel.  The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.  

Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.  

Legs and feet:-

The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.  

Coat:-

The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.  

Colour:-

Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt  that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and  lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred.  Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e.,  ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.

Height:-

From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.

Reverend Lorenzo Langstroth, the man who pioneered modern day beehives, created his original beehive design based on the idea that bee products could be more easily harvested from a spatially constructed box with frames. Since that time in the mid 1800’s others have manipulated that thought into different versions of the original model.

But one model known as the top bar hive, is different. While still using Langstroth’s concept of ‘bee space’, it uses a frameless design that only makes use of it’s top bars – hence the name. Is this design better than the others? There are pros and cons to this type of hive which serious beekeepers need to know.

The design of the top bar is probably the most simple. It requires the least amount of evenly measured elements. In it’s most simplistic form it is a box with some top bars inserted at the top. It can be constructed from different types of materials, and can even use recycled elements.

Plans are available for the do-it-yourselfer who may wish to build one on their own. Alternatively, because of the easy design these hives can be found for purchase and are readily affordable to those on a modest budget. This makes this hive attractive to those who are just looking into beekeeping as a side hobby.

Top bar hives will allow you to collect the maximum amount of wax. Because the honeycombs hang loosely, the entire piece can be cut across and removed during a harvest without scraping. This makes for easy seasonal harvesting, and a lot of wax for consumables such as soaps, candles, cosmetics, and furniture polish.

Because so much effort is used by the bees to reconstruct the interior of the hives, the honey production takes a hit. Top bar hives will not yield the same amount of honey you can get with a design like the Langstroth.

Additionally, with no sides to the pull out frames the construction of the honeycombs can be unpredictable. Occasionally the bees will keep building and attach to the sides of the box. They may also create an interior hive that connects several bars together making it harder to pull up a single frame. This is known as cross combing.

Later revisions to the Top Bar beehives have worked to correct or minimize these downfalls, but the design is not completely free of this issue. Regular maintenance and supervision will be the best remedy to insure proper honeycomb formation before things get out of sync.

To recap, if you are new to beekeeping and working with a budget, top bar beekeeping may be the right place for you to start. You will get some honey, but also expect a hefty amount of wax as well. It may be a little more effort to keep the hives in proper working order, but in the end you can still enjoy all the honey and wax the hive has to offer.

Conures originate from Central America, South America, Mexico and the Caribbean. They vary in size depending on type and can be anywhere in the range of a small to a medium sized parrot. They are very playful and intelligent and can be very affectionate if handled and trained properly in their formative age.

Jenday conures are parrots that grow to approximately 12 inches at maturity. They have dark green wings with blue on the tips of the wing and tail feathers. Their heads are orange and fronts are yellow. This makes them easy to mix up with the sun conure, but this bird do not have the dark green wings and back feathers. Jenday conures are typically found in forest clearings in northeastern Brazil in the wild but they can also be found near coconut palms and the edge of the rain forest.

This pet tend to be very sociable and playful, making them ideal pets for families with children. They are intelligent, meaning that they pick up new tricks and words fairly quickly. However, their pronunciation is not always spot on, so they are not usually very popular talking birds. Also, their vocabulary seems to be fairly limited, knowing only about six unique words at a time – teach them a new word and they will forget one of the words that they already know.

Jenday conures, like any other pet, will remain healthy and develop well only if you pay proper attention to its care and feeding. In general, conures should be fed with proper bird pellet mix perhaps with the sporadic addition of different fruits and vegetables. Seeds and nuts should not feature in their diet at all because they have a high fat content and can cause health problems for your conure. The fruits and vegetables that you add to the pellet mix should be varied to ensure that your pet gets all its proper nutrition and remains healthy.

It’s rude, it’s crude and it is just wrong on SO MANY levels.

Maybe your dog humps guests that visit your home. Perhaps he’s humping random passerbys on the street. It’s possible the victims are as innocent as couch pillows, doggy toys or your favorite chair.

Whatever sets off this habit…

Your dog is humping everything and everyone in sight. Finally, enough is enough! This embarrassing problem has grown out of control and it’s time you put it to rest.

This article will show you how with some great tips to get started. So, without further ado…

Let’s discuss how to stop dog humping permanently.

Why Your Dog is Humping

Believe it or not, 90% of the time dog humping has nothing to do with sex.

I remember the first time my dog was humped by another male dog. I was in my apartment’s elevator at the time with a friendly neighbor who had a cute little Maltese. The dog I was training at the time was a small Yorkie.

As soon as the elevator doors closed, the Maltese mounted my yorkie and started humping like the energizer bunny.

He just kept going and going…

My neighbor’s face was priceless. He turned to me and said “I’m so sorry, I had no idea my dog was gay.”

He was actually serious and I had to hold back my laughter at his uninformed remark.

It wasn’t his fault. Really, most people don’t know any better. But the fact is, dog humping, whether it be on a leg, another dog or a piece of furniture, is rarely sexual in nature.

In reality, when your dog humps or mounts, it is establishing its dominance over another.

Dog humping is the result of your dog trying to size up its opponent and apply itself as higher up on the ladder of the pack.

If the humpee surrenders to your dogs humping by laying down or doing nothing, then in your dog’s eyes, it has established leadership in the order of the pack.

It’s just basic instinct so don’t feel like this is something you’ve done wrong in your dog upbringing. I promise you’re still a good, loving dog parent.

The trick to resolving this is knowing the exact training techiques to stop dog humping without making your dog confused or anxious.

3 Ways to Stop Dog Humping Behavior

Below are 3 ways to stop dog humping. You do NOT want to apply all 3 methods at the same time. Try each one separately for 2 weeks at a time. If a strategy appears to be working, don’t try another tactic. Continue with the one that is working.

However, you should try a strategy for AT LEAST 2 weeks before moving onto another one.

Strategy #1

The first way is the most obvious. Say “No” with a stern voice. Drive home the point that this is bad by using a loud and disapproving tone.

Try using a spray bottle. Yes, you’ll need to carry a spray bottle with you for a bit until your dog is trained out of the habit. However, using a spray bottle is a gentle way to give your dog the message fast.

When your dog initiates the humping, spray him in the face with cold water from the spray bottle while simultaneously yelling no. Forcefully pull him off the object or uhh…person.

As you know, positive reinforcement is the best kind of training, however, this is one of the few exceptions when scolding your dog during the act of the negative behavior may be required.

Strategy #2

Distraction can work as well. Many dog owners find that dog humping is a temporary habit. Try distracting your dog with a toy, a walk, exercise or a training session.

Dog humping is an instinctual response. Change your dog’s focus and he’ll stop the behavior.

Strategy #3

Ignoring your dog is another alternative. Don’t underestimate the simplicity of this solution. Your dog is well aware of your presence.

If you’ve been following the guidelines in this site, by now your dog looks at you as the Alpha Dog of the house.

He’s performing these mounting and humping displays to either show you his dominance or exercise his prowess for your admiration.

Walk out of the room when you see him humping. Your dog will stop humping and follow you to obtain your attention in some other way. Ignoring your dog’s performance will let him know that his humping is not gaining your approval.

The FASTEST Solution …

Sure, the strategies above may help stop your dog humping behavior problem. But, if you want to end the problem in a matter of a few days instead of a few weeks, you NEED to see the solution on the next page.

The action plan at http://www.Dog-Training-Works.com will show you EXACTLY how to stop your dog from humping in a step-by-step format that’s guaranteed to work.

Check it out here ——-> http://www.Dog-Training-Works.com