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Posts Tagged ‘authority’

Pets are many things in many ways but they are not responsible. Not outside of very limited doggy parameters. This means that you are 100% responsible for your pet’s health. In this day of seemingly limitless online medication options, the only way to face this challenge is through education. Freedom of choice is only a benefit when you are familiar with the choices.

The easy availability of medications online has placed extra pressure on society to moderate its own behavior responsibly. It has placed even more pressure on human beings using the Internet to shop for pets that are entirely reliant on them for their wellbeing.

Buying pet medicine online offers a level of consumer freedom that is enough to make one dizzy. In the old days we would take our pet to our local veterinarian who would counsel us on the right way to deal with our pet’s health issues. This was a relief in two obvious ways: we could be guided by an expert and we could shift a little of the weight of responsibility. Today it is possible to go online, diagnose and medicate our own pet.

This is a boon on the one hand, and a very serious danger on the other. With the aid of the Internet we are empowered to act somewhat independently of traditional channels. This is a qualified bonus only if we are almost uncomfortably aware of the fact that we do not have years of veterinary experience behind us. This awareness should hopefully make us doubly cautious as we navigate these unfamiliar waters with our newfound freedom.

The bonus is a qualified one because it should not take the place of veterinary expertise when that is appropriate. The question of how to discern when that is appropriate is the million-dollar question. Websites play experts and they do so with expertise but it is not necessarily the expertise we need.

A favorite tactic is to dot the website with white clad ‘experts’ who profess to a proficiency they don’t have. It is important to note that the figures are often just models paid to pose with an air of authority. We need something more than a show of proficiency when it comes to the lives of our precious pets.

The bottom line is this; nothing can take the place of a visit to the veterinarian when your pet is sick. Attempting to diagnose your pet’s ailment yourself can have devastating consequences. When time is of the essence, wasting it waiting for cost effective, online drugs to be shipped to your door is not only unwise but inhumane.

Buying pet medicine online has a limited application. Within these boundaries it can be both benign and cost effective. This avenue works best with repeat medications like flea, tick, worming and heart medications. If you are considering taking advantage of the online option let your vet know. He or she will have to write out a prescription for you to use when purchasing online. Many services also offer to call the vet directly. Your delivery date will be reliant on prompt communication between the online company and the veterinarian’s office working together to share information.

Purchasing non-prescription drugs for your pet online is also a matter for caution and consideration. Because certain drugs do not require a prescription does not mean that they are not potentially dangerous if administered unwisely. Read instructions carefully. Good websites take their role as educator seriously. Most have extensive information online regarding dosages and side effects.

Avoid or be cautious regarding prices that are way below market on pet medications. Most legitimate companies hover in the same discount region. Outrageous savings are normally only offered by fly by night companies offering questionable product.

Is it possible to train a dog or puppy to leave a bowl of food that you place down on the floor in front of him/her and not eat the food until you give a command? Sounds impossible you might think, but it really is achievable to train a dog or puppy to do this.

Ok, but why would you want to get a dog or puppy not to eat the food until you say so in the first place? Seems a little strange, as dog owners we have their health and welfare at heart. Surely his/her dietary needs are high priority and to stop them eating when the food is in front of him/her is just cruel?

Consider this, dogs are basically descended from wolves and as such it is instinctive in your dog/puppy to behave in a certain way. In the wild it really is each dog for himself and only the strong survive. That is nature’s way and those that are not able to fend for themselves die.

Like wolves, dogs are pack animals; again they will exhibit behaviour that is instinctive when it comes to eating. There are rules about who eats what and when in a pack situation. The dominant alpha male will always eat first and have his fill, after that it really is a case of be bold, aggressive and strong in order that you eat and live.

When you first get your puppy, he/she will have come from a pack environment, having spent the first few months of life in the company of litter brothers/sisters. During this time a pecking order will have been established amongst them all.

When you place food down in front of a dog or puppy the speed at which he/she will dive in and polish off the lot is quite breath taking. In a pack situation he/she can never be sure when or where the next meal may come from. So it is very important for a dog or puppy to eat as quickly as possible in order to ensure that he/she survives until the next meal and also so that another dog cannot steal his/her food.

When you take all these things into consideration just because your dog/puppy is now living in a house, as far as they know he/she is still surrounded by pack i.e. you and your family. So it makes sense that in his/her mind there is still a pecking order. This is why it is very important that you establish authority over a dog or puppy as alpha dog in your pack. You must be the one to give your permission for him/her to eat when you say so.

When you first get a dog or puppy from day one, as soon as food is placed down in front of him/her, hold the collar gently and say the word wait or sit as a command. Either word is fine but be consistent and use the same word each time you do this.

Hold the dog or puppy back from the food (of course he/she will be desperate to dive in at this point!).Then, after a short time say the word yes and let him/her eat. At this stage he/she will have no idea of what you are telling him/her to do but, it will soon sink in that until you give the command as top dog, no food is allowed to be eaten.

This can in some cases take time and patience to train on your part but it is well worth the effort to become the alpha dog in your pack.

Teaching a dog or puppy anything can be made easy by learning and using the correct training techniques. There are plenty of Secrets to Dog Training that very few pet owners are aware of that make training your dog as easy as following A, B, C. The Best Dog Training Guide online has helped over 200,000 dog owners so far and is well worth reviewing.

The Friesian Horse, one of Europe’s oldest domesticated breeds, originated in Friesland, a province of The Netherlands. It is considered to be a Warmblood because of its easy-going temperament with a companionable nature. The Friesian horse is also a talented show horse when it comes to dressage. This is due to its intelligence, willingness to learn and to please, and readiness to perform.

It is difficult to date the precise origin of the Friesian but it is believed to be descended from the ancient Equus robustus (big horse). Frisian horsemen served in the Roman Legions, e.g. the Equites Singulares of Emperor Nero (54-68), and in Great Britain near Hadrian’s Wall which was built in 120 AD. There is certainty that the horse was well-known in the Middle Ages since it is found in art work of that era. Breeding horses was very important for the Frisians and before the reformation, the monks in Friesland monasteries did a lot of horse breeding.

In the 1600’s it was adopted to carry heavy weight under saddle. During the 16th and 17th centuries, and maybe earlier, Arabian blood was introduced through the Spanish Andalusian horses. This gave them the high knee-action, the small head and the craning neck. The Friesian horse has had no influence from the English Thoroughbred and during the last two centuries it has been bred pure.

Through the centuries, the Friesian Government has made many regulations in order to safeguard breeding and now the Dutch Horselaw of 1939 (modified) gives rules for studbook and breeding. Systematic breeding has restored the breed’s quality and its numbers are now increasing. The horse is now being exported to other countries and its popularity is growing.

The Friesian horse was originally imported to North America in the 17th century but the purity of the breed was totally lost in North America due to crossbreeding because due to its splendid action at the trot, the Friesian was bred to be lighter in weight. This, unfortunately, limited its use in agriculture and led to its decline in the early 1900’s. It nearly died out before World War I, when the number of Friesian stallions was reputedly reduced to only three. The breed was rejuvenated by introducing the Oldenburg horse.

Thanks to a few Dutch Friesian admirers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, purebred Friesians are now seen and enjoyed around the world, with the majority being in the Netherlands and Germany, followed by North America where it was reintroduced in 1974. The result has been the establishment of “daughter” societies of FPS around the world.

In conformation, the Friesian horse resembles the ancient western European horse and the knights’ horse called destrier. Most memorable is their impressive stature. Friesian stallions must be at least 15.3 hands by age four with mares and geldings reaching at least 14.3 hands in order to be registered in the adult studbooks. Many are 16.0 hands or more, and weigh 1300 + pounds.

The fine head of the Friesian is carried quite high on an elegantly curved neck with outstanding crest, but compared to the body, the head seems relatively small and either straight or slightly concave. The face is expressive with big eyes, and small ears are typical. The breed has a broad chest with lightly accentuated croup. Tough legs with good bone structure, and hind quarters that are muscular yet smooth, result in an enduring and surefooted horse.

The modern Friesian has long, heavy, luxuriant mane and the extra-long tail; these are never cut and often reach the ground. The breed also has abundant feather and long Shire-like leg hair reaching from the middle of the leg. When performing, these features combine with the feathers and the low set of the tail to emphasize the breed’s powerful and elastic gait.

Up until the turn of the century about twenty percent were chestnut or bay, and gray also occurred in the breed, but black is now the only recognized color, but this may range from very dark brown or black-bay to true black. Many Friesians appear to be black bay when their coats are shedding or when they have become sun or sweat bleached. White markings have been minimized by selective breeding and the only white marking that is allowed on a studbook-registered horse is a small white spot or star between the eyes.

The Friesian has a powerful, high-stepping gait, but aside from its high knee action and elegant performance, the Friesian horse was also used as a trotting race horse for the short distance of 80 rods (325 m). In the 18th and 19th centuries these horse races were very popular in Friesland. For important races the prize was a silver or a gold whip. The Friesian Museum at Leeuwarden has a fine collection of them. The races at Leeuwarden ended in 1891 when H.M. Queen Regent Emma awarded the golden whip for the last time.

The Friesian horse influenced the breeding of the Russian Orloff, along with English and American race horses. Since these horses were bred and used for racing only and were faster, this brought Friesian horseracing to an end.

The modern Friesian is slightly taller and lighter on its feet than its coach-bred ancestors, which has allowed the Friesian to re-emerge as both a champion dressage and driving performance horse.

Driving one or more Friesian horses has become increasingly popular in the past few years. Harness events in shows are usually driven with a high-wheeled gig called the “sjees”, for singles, pairs, and tandems. The oldest original sjees were built in the late 18th century. The sjees derives its elegant form from the two slender, high wheels and the small seat suspended between them on leather straps. The two-person seat has ornately molded, carved, and painted panels, back, front, and sides, with a bit of a Rubenesque look to it. An especially impressive show is the Friesian quadrille which is comprised of 8 sjees, drawn by Friesians, driven by gentlemen accompanied by a lady, both dressed in traditional 1850’s costumes. Complex patterns are driven, showing the drivers’ trust in the obedience of their horses. Driving with four-wheeled show carts is also becoming popular.

The Friesian Horse Association of North America (FHANA) was founded in 1983 and is the North American representative of the original Friesian horse association, Friese Paarden Stamboek (FPS). The FPS is recognized as the world-wide authority on the Friesian Horse. This studbook is the oldest in the Netherlands. It was founded May 1, 1879. There are more than 45,000 Friesians registered worldwide in the FPS with approximately 4,000 of those horses in North America. Tongue-tattooing, once voluntary, became mandatory in 1989.

The rules of FHANA strictly forbid the breeding of FPS registered Friesian horses with other breeds and only Approved Studbook Stallions can sire horses that are eligible for entry in the main studbook registers. There are approximately 75 Approved Stallions in the world today and about a quarter of those are in North America. The selection and testing requirements are so rigorous that only a handful is approved each year. Four years after approval, the stallion’s offspring must demonstrate to the studbook inspectors that the Approved stallion is making a positive impact on the breed or his approval will be withdrawn. This insures that only the very best stallions will influence the future of the Friesian horse.

The naming conventions for the Friesian Horses are quite involved and often require a foal to be renamed with a Friesian word when it becomes an approved breeding stallion. Names of fillies cannot be duplicated in the same calendar year, but its ok for colts to have the same name as other colts. Each calendar year a foal’s name must begin with specific letters of the alphabet as designated by the FPS. For example, names for foals born in 2008 must begin with the letters A, B, or C, and should be relatively simple, consisting of a single word. Explicit details for all naming rules can be found on the FPS website.

The Friesian horse is equally skilled at multi-level dressage, trotting, and driving, singly or combined. The same blood lines that run through the Lipizzaner are present in the Friesian, but unlike some other European warmbloods, Friesians have not been bred as jumpers.

The key to a happy and healthy relationship between you and your dog is good training. All dogs need to be trained to be obedient for their own health and well-being, just as much as making them manageable is easier for you.

Often, if dogs are not trained correctly, they will become unruly, aggressive and in some cases completely unmanageable. This is not just bad for the dog’s owner, it is also incredibly distressing for the dog. We humans intentionally bred only the submissive traits of wolves when creating the domesticated dog. Therefore, when it comes to leadership, it is not a role that our dogs feel comfortable in. However, all packs must have a leader and if its not you, then a dog will feel that it has to occupy the post even though it finds it confusing and stressful.

Moreover, a well-behaved dog is a pleasure to be around for all people, even non-dog lovers. Therefore, it is in everybody’s best interest to train your dog and ensure that he, or she, recognizes you as the boss.

The Basics of Training Your Dog

Because a dog is genetically programmed to want to please its master (you), the very best way of training is with positive reinforcement methods, such as clicker training, using treats as rewards or simply providing praise for good behavior. Almost all dog trainers recommend this approach to training rather than punishment of negative or naughty behavior.

It is advisable to begin training your dog as soon as possible. If you have a puppy, then training will be easy if you start from day one. However, even if you adopt an adult dog training is not difficult as long as you begin as you mean to go on. In other words, do not get carried away by the joy of having a new pet and spoil him, or her, because you will be making life difficult when it comes to enforcing rules. For example, if a house rule is no dogs on the furniture, make sure this is upheld from the day a new dog is welcomed into your home. Remember, mixed messages will simply confuse and distress a dog.

Manners All Dogs Should Have

Of course, each home will have its own rules. However, there are some basic rules that all dogs should abide by, partly for his, or her, safety, partly to reinforce your position as boss and partly to ensure that no visitors to the home are distressed by your dogs behavior. For example:

Dogs should never jump up on people – you may think of it as an affectionate way to greet you, but if a dog puts its paws on your shoulders, it is likely to think this is an acceptable thing to do to anyone who walks through the door and not everyone enjoys being leapt on. Additionally, jumping up to your height can be a gesture to challenge your authority, so it is advisable to make a dog wait patiently until you are ready to greet him, or her.

Dogs shouldn’t beg at the table – begging will often occur if your dog has been fed at or under the table in the past. Therefore, if you do not wish your dog to drool at the sight of you eating, do not offer him, or her, sneaky treats.

Dogs should never be possessive over bones or toys – In case your dog gets hold of something it shouldn’t, it is important that you are able to take any item away from him, or her. Moreover, this is a great way to establish your authority and gain your dog’s respect. Therefore, it is a good idea to take a favorite toy, bone or food away from your dog at random points when he, or she, is a puppy. This may seem a little cruel, but if the dog behaves well, you can replace the item straight away and give him, or her, lots of praise. If, on the other hand, the dog growls or is aggressive, you may need to take things from him, or her, more frequently and for longer periods. The aim is to get the dog to recognize all items as yours – you just let him, or her, play or chew them.

Obviously, these are just some of the things that a dog owner should consider. However, they are great foundations from which to expand your dogs training. If you are having difficulty with your dog, seek the advice of a animal trainer, behaviorist or veterinarian.

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