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There are many things to learn when learning how to take care of a ferret, but they are all very simple.  However, you need to ensure you understand the responsibility on you as mother, father and family of your new pet ferret.  When actually deciding how and where to house your ferret, consider these 3 essentials ingredients properly and you and your new fuzzy will have many happy years together.

Safety

Safety of your ferret should be top of your list when looking at where and in what you are going to keep your pet ferret.  You do not want him escaping, injuring himself or being hurt by other animals or pets.

Get a proper ferret cage.  This is important as other cages are totally unsuitable.  You need the spaces between the bars to be right, so that fuzzy can not get that nosey head of his between them.  Also this ensures that other animals or pets can’t either.

When looking at where to put the cage, you should be avoiding radiators or other heaters.  You want a good steady temperature for your pet ferret to be healthy.

Space

I am talking about inside and out when considering the space required to take care of a ferret.

Inside, means a good sized cage, with 2 levels if possible.  Your new ferret needs plenty of room to be able to sleep comfortably and play, to keep him stimulated when not out of it and exercising with you.

That cage I going to have to have a litter tray in it ideally, so take that into account when you choose.  Buy the best that money can buy.  Do not go cheap, as there is usually a reason for that.  You don’t want to find the bars rusting in 3 months time, do you?

Outside make sure you have a good space to play, which is free of dangerous temptations, such as electric flex and wire, children’s toys and human food.  None of these lead to a long life for ferrets

Cleaning

Let’ face it animals poop and ferrets are no different.  It’s not the most pleasant thing in life, but we all have to do it!  But your ferret can’t clean his own up, that’s down to you my friend. But there are ways to make this easier.  First of all buy a cage with plenty of space for a litter box or tray and train your ferret to use it.  This is actually easier than it sounds.  This way everything is in one place and cleaning is a simple process.

You have to keep that cage clean and change the bedding regularly.  If you don’t you are storing up problems which could come out in diseases and illness for your little prince.

Make sure you have other litter boxes and trays outside the cage as well which you can train your ferret to use.

If you are planning on owning a baby ferret, there are some facts that you might like to know.

Female ferrets (or Jills as they are known) have, on average, around 6 – 10 baby ferrets in each litter. A baby ferret is known as a ‘kit’. They are born blind and their eyes only start to open at about six weeks old.

A kit should not be separated from its mother until it is at least 10 weeks old. Parting a kit from its mother before this time is not recommended as in the first few weeks of its life, the kit needs to bond with its mother and is also dependent on her for its food.

Depending on where you bought your young ferret will determine whether or not you need to arrange vaccinations. Typically, an adopted ferret will have had his initial vaccinations already as these can be administered at 9 weeks. Ferrets are normally vaccinated against canine distemper.

A kit needs the right kind of diet to give it the best start in life. Baby ferrets require a high protein diet, so choose a specially formulated ferret food. Avoid giving your kit any cat food as this won’t have the right amount of protein. Aim for a food that has at least 35% protein and 20% fat. Provide fresh water for your kits at all times.

Switching a ferret’s diet quickly can cause problems, so find out what your young ferret was eating before you brought him home and wean him off that and onto what you plan to feed him with.

You can train your new ferret to use a litter tray. It’s a good idea to find out what litter he has been using at the pet store, the breeders or the shelter and use that to start with so that he feels familiar with it. Some litters are dangerous for ferrets, so avoid any of the clumping, silica based ones. Wood shavings are not recommended either. The best type to go for is compressed newspaper pellets or wood pellets. Praise your ferret for using his litter tray and reinforce the desired behaviour. It’s a good idea to keep your ferret’s toilet area well away from the area in which he sleeps.

Ferrets emit a natural odour that’s quite unpleasant. You can help to reduce the intensity of the odour by having your ferret neutered and de-scented.  A young kit may smell more pungent on his first day at home with you for a number of reasons. Firstly, baby ferrets simply have a strong odour. Also, as they get excited the smell can become more intense. If you have had your ferret de-scented and neutered or spayed, the smell will lessen as the ferret gets older.

Ferrets love to play, so make sure you spend some time each day having fun with your new family member. Ensure your home is ferret friendly by hiding any exposed wires (he’ll want to chew them!) and putting away anything your young kit may swallow.

Raising rabbits for meat is a common business but it requires more dedication and attention compared to normal pet rabbit care. In this kind of business, the first thing that should be considered is the breed of rabbit to produce. The types which are commonly used in the business of raising rabbits for meat are the Californians and New Zealands because they are the fastest producing breeds. Most owners have purebred stocks of these types while some crossbreed them to produce babies that grow more quickly and are more vigorous. The New Zealand breed is one of the most popular among rabbit meat because they can already be sold in the market in just 8 weeks. The Californians, on the other hand, are highly demanded because of their plump yet fine-boned body structures.

Raising rabbits for meat is a business which is highly dependent on the quality of feeding that the producer does to his pets. Generally, rabbits are kinds of animals which consume different kinds of foods. However, if a producer wants to get quality meat, only commercial pellets or alfalfa hay should be given to them. Feeding these animals with lettuce or cabbage is not recommended because these vegetables can cause diarrhea problems. Giving the proper amount of the food is also important in raising rabbits for meat because overfeeding will cause too much accumulation of body fat. Once a doe becomes too fat, it may have some problems with kindling or breeding.

Knowing when to breed the parents is also important in raising rabbits for meat. Medium breeds are usually bred between 5-6 months while large breeds are not bred until they are 8 months. In choosing the animals to breed, make sure to choose those that are healthy and are not closely related. In mating the doe and the buck, the doe should be the one which should be placed in the cage of the buck because female rabbits are often territorial with their own cages.

The gestation period of these animals takes 31 days. The actual birth of the young also happens in this time frame. Also make sure that the doe is already placed in a comfortable nest a few days before her actual giving birth. Feeding the babies should not be a problem because the does naturally nurse their young. In cases when the mother has died though, the babies should be fed with a mixture made of skim milk, egg yolks, karo syrup, and bone meal.

Giant green iguanas are the “in” thing now. This is one of the most popular reptiles that is being held captive and is taken care of in most households. So you should not be surprised if your child asks for one instead of the usual cats or dogs.

If you base on the word “giant”, you are probably thinking that these iguanas will appear so. Many would-be iguana owners will be surprised at the size that these reptiles can turn into in its adult years. You may have brought a little pet in the store along with cute accessories only to realize later on that those things would not fit your pet anymore.

These are what giant green iguanas can turn to. They may look small initially but they can grow their maximum size if you know how to do it properly. Now, how do you do that?

You can start off by choosing the healthiest iguana you can find. You will see this if the iguana seems active and alert. Check out their body and body parts. They should be round and without any signs of scratches, bumps or lumps.

The difference between healthy and a not-so-healthy iguana can be seen by their movements. A healthy one does not sit around and remain stagnant in one place. You will find them moving around in their cages as if curious with what is happening around them. Their eyes would appear round. Their tongue should also flick in and out while moving about.

You should not make the mistake of selecting one that appears to be calm in thinking that they can easily be taken care of. Another mistake is choosing one that appears sickly because you pity the reptile. These are sure signs that the iguana is not really healthy after all. You might end up regretting your decision later on.

The next step is giving it a suitable and comfortable home. The aquarium that you need to buy will depend upon how small or grown up your pet is already. Smaller iguanas require 10 to 29 galloon aquariums.

The best thing to do is have a custom-made cage built. It will prevent you from shifting to one cage after another once the iguana starts growing. It does not matter if you think that the cage is too large for your pet. Eventually, it will grow bigger and will need more room to move around.

The kind of diet that you give your iguana will determine how healthy or unhealthy it will be. Iguanas in their juvenile years should be fed everyday. While those in their older years can be fed after every two days.

Even if iguanas are carnivorous, the best foods to give them are green leafy vegetables. These will ensure that they maintain a healthy and balanced diet. You should do well in maintaining the kind of diet you will give your pet so that it will not turn out fat, obese and lazy.

Female iguanas have the tendency not to eat the food you give them. This may be because they are in their egg development stage. Once this stage has passed, they will get their appetite back. Just be patient in free feeding them so they will become thin and unenergetic.

Having a healthy iguana is just a matter of taking the necessary steps. If you want your giant green iguana to live for years to come, you will take time to consider every aspect needed in their growth.

There are various diseases that can affect your betta.  Most betta fish diseases are caused by poor water quality, so you can prevent many by keeping the water clean.  Some of the most common illnesses include fin rot, velvet, and popeye.  This article will discuss some of these illnesses.

Fin Rot

Fin rot is one of the most common diseases.  If you keep a betta long enough, you will probably have to deal with it at least once.  This condition is characterized by the tail or fins rotting away.  It can quickly become a problem if you allow the water to stay unclean too long.  Although the tail or fins will grow back once treatment begins, it will take some time. 

Popeye

Popeye is also one of the most common betta fish diseases.  Like fin rot, it’s caused by unclean water which leads to a bacterial infection.  This condition is quite easy to spot as your fish’s eyes will literally bulge out of his head.  It can be disgusting the first time you see it.  Popeye needs to be treated with antibiotics and frequent water changes.

Velvet

Unlike the two aforementioned diseases, velvet is caused by a parasite.  It is highly contagious and can quickly spread to other fish in the tank.  Affected fish will attempt to get rid of the parasite by rubbing themselves against hard objects.  Other signs of velvet include rapid gill movement, weight loss, loss of appetite, and lethargy.

This illness presents a problem because it’s usually diagnosed in an advanced stage.  Therefore, you would need to start treatment as quickly as possible.  TO treat this condition, you will need to dim the lights, add copper sulphate to the water, and raise the temperature to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  Your fish may also have a hard time breathing.  Aquarium salt will help remedy this.

Dropsy

Dropsy is one of the most serious betta fish diseases.  It is usually fatal.  This illness results from kidney failure which causes fluid to build-up inside your fish.  You can easily spot his swollen belly.  If he also has raised scales, it’s a pretty safe bet that he has dropsy.  Unfortunately, there is no cure and most bettas die within a couple of weeks.