Cattle

Posts Tagged ‘bio’

For as long as I can remember, clay based cat litter was the standard. Clay based cat litter was always inexpensive and reasonably effective. The trick was to keep the nasty bits scooped out and change the litter at a reasonable interval. When to change the litter was fairly easy to figure out since the clay would absorb only so much urine. Several cats I have had the pleasure to own over the years were not shy about telling when they thought it was time to clean the litter box.

Prior to the introduction of clay cat litter, owners of inside cats relied on a wide variety of materials. Shredded newspaper, sand, and even plain dirt served the purpose but had some obvious drawbacks. None of these materials was very absorbent and needed to be changed often. As any owner of an inside cat will tell you, controlling the inevitable order from the cat box was difficult.

As with most product inventions and improvements, the inventor was responding to a need. The introduction of what came to be commonly known as kitty litter was not much different. Introduced in the late nineteen forties, clay based cat litter changed the way people, and cats, thought about controlling cat waste. Compared to other soil types, the composition of clay soil makes it naturally absorbent. In its natural state, clay has a very high moisture content, sometimes to the point of saturation. Now this hardly sounds like a substance that would make a great filler for the cat box.

What makes clay based cat litters work is what happens between the time the clay is collected and when it lands in the litter box. Raw clay would be dried, usually in a hot kiln. The process of kiln drying and baking is used in the production of clay pottery and the drying of milled timber. Baking the clay removes a significant amount of moisture. As water is removed from the clay, the volume shrinks and what remains is a substance that is once again capable to absorbing moisture. Its as simple as that and an entire industry sprang up around that one simple fact.

So for almost fifty years, clay based cat litter ruled the cat box. Along the way, attempts were made to add odor control ingredients, including aftermarket products. Since cat urine would turn mildly acidic over time, many folks would combine simple baking soda with the clay litter. The baking soda acted to change the Ph of the urine, neutralizing the acid and reducing odor. Other aftermarket products used combinations of various chemicals, including perfumes and odor neutralizers. These products were easy to use and were just sprinkled into the litter.

Just as we thought the science of cat litter had reached its zenith, along comes scoopable litter. It clumped, it lumped and turned the undesirable chore of cleaning the cat box into something almost bearable. Loaded with deodorizers, this unique product remained in granulated state until being used by the cat. The granules adhere to the urine and feces, encapsulating it in a clump. Using a common litter scoop, the waste is easily removed, leaving the clean litter behind.

The convenience of scoopable cat litter does come with a price. While clay based litter is relatively inexpensive, some brands of scoopable litter can be pricey. The added expense is mitigated somewhat since less scoopable litter is needed to keep the litter pan clean. Still, there are some cat owners who are concerned about the chemicals used to in the production of scoopable cat litter.

In response to some of those concerns, a market has sprung up for scoopable cat litter that uses natural enzymes to control odor. New brands of natural litter stress the low dust and absence of strong chemical deodorizers. Clay is a very rugged substance and will not break down.

Without clay as a base, producers of natural cat litter advertise their products as biodegradable and even flushable. While filling the local sewer system with used cat litter would not be my first disposal choice, it is nice to know that it will breakdown naturally.

When you built your pond, you probably spent a lot of time planning its design. You made sure every plumbing piece was in place. You carefully selected your filter and your pump. Everything seems perfect. While everything mechanical is in place, did you know that you need to plan your fish just as carefully as everything else?

Many experienced fish keepers will tell you that the best way to guarantee long-lived healthy fish is to buy top quality stock from local reputable breeders. This ensures you have fish that have not been overly stressed by transport, carefully bred for quality and grown on the best food.

If you aren’t lucky enough to have a local koi breeder, or you’ve already bought your koi, not all is lost! In fact, most purchased koi are from national-level breeders, have been transported and do not have confirmed breeding standards. This doesn’t mean you can’t have great fish. It just means you need to be extra careful to quarantine and feed high quality food for continued growth.

Quarantining your koi fish is absolutely necessary for koi health. Every time you obtain a new fish (regardless of source), you need to quarantine your new koi for at least 4 weeks before adding it to your existing stock. If you don’t properly quarantine, you risk introducing foreign bacteria and viruses into your stock. There are some fish illnesses, such as bacterial infections, flukes and worms that can kill your stock in one week after introduction.

Proper quarantine means no mixed water, food or contact between your existing stock and your new fish. When quarantining, you need to watch out for signs of stress in your new fish. Signs of stress and illness include a lack of appetite, discoloration on the scales/eyes, torn fins and lethargy. If you notice any such signs, there are several treatment options.

If your fish has torn fins or external lesions, you should treat with antibiotics administered with the fish food. If your fish isn’t eating after several days, you may have internal parasites. Praziquantel (a.k.a. PraziPro) or metronidazole are very effective safe treatments for internal parasites, including gill flukes and worms. We recommend NOT using Potassium Permanganate unless you have exhausted all other options. Potassium Permanganate should never be used on fish with external lesions as it will burn their internal tissues.

After you’ve quarantined your new koi, and all goes well, you can add them to your pond! Depending on your bio-load and the number of fish you add, you may need to up your water changes. Already you should be changing at least 30% of your pond water a week to keep your pH stable and nitrates low. Adding more fish adds more waste to your filter, and it may take some time for new nitrifying bacteria to build up. Water changes keeps nitrites low if you’ve recently added a lot of new fish.

On top of water changes, you should regularly add salt to your pond. This isn’t table salt or anything like that. We’re talking about salt that’s iodine-free and designed for aquarium and pond use. When you add salt to your pond, your koi will build up a thicker slime coat that supports a strong immune system. Pond salt also helps respiration in koi, and is effective in killing many common parasites. You should add 2 – 2.5 cups of pond salt per 100 gallons. You should only add more salt when you perform a water change (it does not evaporate).

For your koi, you should vary their diet instead of feeding the same pellet every day. This ensures they get enough nutrients from a variety of sources. If you have very young koi, it doesn’t hurt to feed them a hearty supply of beefheart so they grow well. Also, it’s okay and encouraged for your koi to eat some plants. This gives them plant fiber which helps prevent bloat.

Koi are beautiful hardy fish that can live for years when they’re given a stress-free environment, good <A HREF=”http://www.naturalenviro.com/sections.php?section=FishFood”>koi food</A> and stable water quality. They’re well worth the effort!

Here are a few reasons why I like the UgoDog dog litter box. I’ve seen a lot of boxes and this one really impressed me.

First, what I really like about it is how it is made. it’s hard to find a dog litter box that will support a dog that might be heavy. They use an injection molding process to make the UgoDog and because of that, it can be used by dogs of all weights and sizes. So you don’t have to worry about a maximum weight limit. Now that’s nice if you have a heavy dog!

Next, I like the grate system that they use. It is a very small grid and a dog or puppies’ paws cannot get caught in it. So it’s very safe for your dog. The urine goes through the grate and the dog’s paws stay dry. That’s a great feature because with newspapers or pee pads, a dog will step right in it and can track it throughout the house. That can make a big mess…been there, done that!

Another thing that impressed me is that it is environmentally friendly. You just use newspaper in the bottom and change it out daily. No messy litter to deal with. Newspaper is completely biodegradable and I am really into recycling and the environment.

Did you know that when you use pee pads they are just like a baby diaper and do you know how long they say it takes for a baby diaper to decompose? 500 years give or take! So needless to say, this is a great feature and something to really think about.

Finally, I like the fact that it’s simple and easy to keep clean. I like simple and I love easy! You spray or wipe it down, put in some fresh newspapers and your are ready to go! Now that’s really nice!

Well, that’s my take on the UGoDog dog litter box and I hope it gave you some things to think about.

Dog Addison’s disease or Canine Hypoadrenocorticism is caused by a lower than normal production of hormones by the adrenal glands (a small gland located near the kidney that secretes several different substances such as salt, sugar and water that help regulate normal body functions) that results from the reduction in corticosteroid. Adrenal gland responsible for producing cortisones (glucocorticoids), hormones that helps your pet’s body deal with stress, and mineral corticoids that regulate the quantity of potassium and sodium in the bloodstream. Addison’s Disease can cause many serious health complications, and has a high probability of being mis-diagnosed as another disease. This is because the symptoms of Addison’s disease in dogs are relatively general, including fatigue, diarrhea, sweating, and muscle pain. The most difficult aspect of dealing with Addison’s disease in your dog is receiving a positive diagnosis for the disease.

Certain dog breeds are suspected to be more prone to develop Addison’s disease. These breeds include Portuguese Water Dogs, Bearded Collies, Standard Poodles, Great Danes, and the Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier. Dogs that have had surgery near the pituitary gland or hypothalamus may also develop Addison’s disease. It is not a common disease but when it does occur it is primarily in young or middle-aged female dogs averaging on 4-7 years of age although any age or gender may be affected. Usually, it is only the outer portion of the glands that are affected. There are two different classifications for Addison’s disease, which depend largely on the underlying cause of the adrenal insufficiency. In primary Addison’s disease, the adrenal insufficiency is directly caused by improper function or damage to the adrenal glands. In secondary Addison’s disease, the adrenal insufficiency is not because of malfunctioning adrenal glands. Secondary Addison’s disease is caused by the improper transmission of the hormone ACTH from the pituitary gland, or a reduced production of corticotrophin releasing factor (CRF) by the hypothalamus. In secondary Addison’s disease, the adrenal gland is still functioning normally.

Common causes of dog Hypoadrenocorticism are: 1) Adrenal Dysgenesis is a rare genetic condition in which the adrenal gland has not formed properly during a dog’s early development.; 2) Adrenal Destruction, the adrenal gland is progressively damaged by disease, and is subsequently unable to function.; 3) Impaired Steriodogenesis, the adrenal gland is unable to produce cortisol on a biochemical level.; 4) Damaged Pituitary Gland; 5) Prolong use of steroid hormones; and 6) Lack of Aldosterone that causes drop in blood pressure and severe dehydration. Genetic continuity between dogs and humans helps to explain the occurrence of Addison’s disease in both species.

Blood drawn from dogs with Addison’s disease is deficient in cortisol. Sick dogs often show a pattern of changes in their white blood cells (WBCs) called a stress leukogram. This pattern of changes in the WBCs is caused by cortisol. The absence of a stress leukogram in a sick dog may be a clue to consider Addison’s disease. The urine is often dilute.

The standard treatment involves replacing the mineralocorticoids and glucocorticoids in the body. There are two stages of treatment for Addison’s disease; in-hospital treatment and long term treatment. Very sick dogs with Addison’s disease require intravenous fluids, cortisol-like drugs and drugs to neutralize the effects of potassium on the heart. Long-term treatment involves the administration of hormones in one of two forms; either a daily pill or a shot that is given about every 25 days. Because dogs with Addison’s disease cannot produce more cortisol in response to stress, stress should be minimized whenever possible. It may be necessary to increase the amount of hormones given during periods of stress (e.g. boarding, surgery, travel, etc.). Most of the medications used in the therapy of hypoadrenocorticism cause excessive thirst and urination. It is absolutely vital to provide fresh drinking water for the canine sufferer. A newer option in the treatment of Addison’s disease is a drug called DOCP. The injection is long acting and only needs to be given once every 25 days. DOCP has been intensively tested and been shown to provide better electrolyte regulation than Florinef. Some animals on DOCP may also need to be placed on a low maintenance dose of prednisone.

Proper aquarium maintenance is very crucial in goldfish care. Goldfish are relatively easy to care for and if you maintain your fish tank properly you will see that keeping goldfish health is quite an easy task.

If you feel like you can always hire an aquarium maintenance service which may come to your office or home and take care of your fish. However, it is an always great to take care of your beloved fish yourself. It will give you a lot of satisfaction and pleasure and can be a rewarding experience.

Important steps in goldfish care

Very important equipment in your fish tank is its filtration system. You can choose from a wide range of filtration system available in the. However, the most common one resembles a box which fits over one side of the aquarium. The tank water will circulates through this filtration system and it generally uses charcoal. Again, another variety of filtration system can be biological filter. This type of filter can be used in along with a charcoal filtration as well. One advantage of this filter is that it allows good bacteria to grow inside the tank.

The number of fish you have inside your aquarium is also of extreme importance. This is because it can influence the quality of water. If you have too many fish in a relatively smaller tank the water will tend to deteriorate very fast. So always maintain correct fish population inside the tank. Next you must be careful not to over-feed your goldfish. You must feed that much only which your fish can eat up within a few minutes. Because uneaten food can rot and give birth to bacteria.

Change water partially water

It is always essential to change your tank water partially in every week. In fact it is central to your goldfish’s care. Changing a portion of fish tank water every week will help you to keep the level of alga down and also to maintain a proper environment inside the tank. Moreover, you can siphon around 20 percent of the water in every few days. If your tap water has chlorine in it you must add a chlorine neutralizer before pouring it into the tank.

Observe the behavior of your fish daily

It is always handy to observe the behavior of your goldfish regularly. By doing this you can ensure that everything is fine inside the tank. Always check your filter and see if kit is running properly or not. If you have experience a power cut make sure that the air pump is running well.

Furthermore, if you see any behavioral change in your fish you must know that there should be a cause behind it. You must take a proactive step to determine the cause of this change or else it may hamper your fish in the future.