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Training your dog to “sit” is probably the first thing you will train your puppy to do. I write puppy because you can start the training as soon as the puppy has settled in his new home. You might think this isn’t that important, a dog knows how to sit. Well, I think it is very important. Read on and you will found out why and how to train your dog to sit.

1. This first one is easy. You just start by saying “sit” every time the puppy sits itself. He learns to associate the word sit with the action. This is a tip you can use in all training.

2. Take out his favorite treat and keep it in your hand. Sausage usually works well but remember to cut it in small pieces so the puppy can swallow it fast.

3. Sit down on the floor so you get to the same level as the dog. You are less threatening when you sit. More important is that you are close to the dog so you can reward him faster. More about this soon.

4. Slowly move the treat over your puppy’s head. The intention is to get the puppy to smell the treat (he will) and follow it with his nose. He has two options. Either back still standing or sit down. It’s easier to sit down.

5 Immediately as he sits you say “sit” and give him the piece of sausage. This is the key factor to all training. The reward has to be exact in the same moment as the dog does the right thing.

6. Praise the dog. Show your joy with your voice as well as with your body language.

7. Repeat these steps 3-5 times. Not more than that though, as it has to be fun! On the other hand you can repeat the steps several times during the day.

8. In the next step you should try these steps while standing up. You can try to see if the dog reacts only to the word “sit” without your hand and the treat. If he sits down you obviously should praise him and if he doesn’t don’t care. You should never show your disappointment to your dog when you are training.

This is pretty easy for the puppy. In a day or two you will get him to sit with your “sit” command. Now you can try to make him sit down beside you. This is actually a preparation for the heel training. There you want him to sit as soon as you stop walking. If you have thoughts about obedience competitions with your dog you should consider the exact position where he sits and also how fast he sits. That is however off topic in this article.

The next level is to strengthen the word so you get the dog to sit in every situation no matter what’s going on around him. This is an ongoing process and you should never stop training. Use every new situation to train him. Make him sit with new people, new dogs and new surroundings.

It’s quite easy to train your dog to sit. If you consider not training your dog my advice is, think again. When you start training with your new puppy you get much more than the sitting part The puppy loves to do things with you. He learns to listen to his name. He gets used to training and doing things with you and on your initiative. This all together strengthen your position as the leader, and the puppy feels secure. When the puppy falls asleep in the evening his last thoughts should be: “This is really a great pack!”

Health insurance is something almost everyone has, or strives to have. In addition, many people also get pet health insurance as well. Animals are a very important part of most families just like the rest of the family members and sometimes even more. Most people don’t realize that there are now many options out there for pet health insurance and most are much more reasonable and affordable than what we have available for ourselves.

Most pet health insurance policies cover all basic needed services such as spaying and neutering, de-worming, shots, and basic tests such as leukemia testing. Most of these pet health insurance policies offer different tiers to choose from depending on the age and specific needs of the pet. Rather than having to pay outright and break your pocket book for needed vet visits these policies enable you to make low monthly payments, and not owe anything at the time of the visit.

When checking out pet insurance reviews, going for the cheap pet insurance may or may not be the best idea depending on your pets needs. The cheapest pet insurance usually only covers the basic needs of the pet for example; vaccinations, de-worming, etc. When going through a pet insurance review make sure you get the level of coverage that is most accomodating to your needs as well.

Below is a list of the different kinds of coverage pet health insurance usually offers to aid in finding and selecting the best pet health insurance plan for your animals needs. Unfortunately pets just like people get health issues, and it’s just heart breaking when this happens and you’re not prepared or able to get your pet the help they need. Similar to our health insurance depending on the type of visit there may be added expenses that may need to be paid, but those can normally be taken care of at a later date in easier to pay monthly installments along with your pet insurance costs. This makes properly caring for your animals a lot more feasible.

When Does an Individual Not Need Pet Insurance?

This is a tricky question. For some, the cost of caring for a pet may be unjustified if the finances are above the individuals needs. In addition, some may feel that smaller pets, ie; rats, mice, frogs, etc. may not be the best canditates for pet insurance and the pet insurance cost may not be justified. This is also determined on an owner-by-owner basis and is strictly up to the pet owners discretion.

Another time when pet insurance is not needed is when a pet owner is completely capable of paying the vet bills without strain at any given moment. Many people have very healthy pets and only want to pay when the pet is sick or in need of treatment. This is completely o.k. for plenty of individuals. In general, pet insurance is for those who don’t want to pay a lump sum, but find it more affordable to pay ahead of time and be covered when the time is right.

Unfortunately there are many individuals that don’t take their pets to the vet at all. This can lead to undiagnosed illnesses, and a lower quality of health. For example, it’s very important to take your cats in for leukemia testing as it has become a common fatality among the feline society. Most kittens also require de-worming and de-fleeing which is very important to their health and development. We are offering here resources to some of the cheapest pet health insurance so that everyone can find a plan that can work for them and their pet.
The benefits for having pet insurance are abundant though unfortunately it may not be financially feasable for everyone at least it is to most. Below is an example of what a tiered plan may offer;

– Leukemia testing and shots
– de-worming
– de-fleeing
– spaying and neutering
– rabies vaccination
– heartworm testing
– fecal exam
– coronavirus vaccinations
– canine and feline distemper vaccinations
– Treatment and medication for illness
– Treatment and medication for injury
– Annual physical exam

* A plan like this would normally run you anywhere from $25 to $35 a month per pet.

This is an example of a well rounded option for a plan that includes wellness as well as continuing care and accidents which could be most important as they account for the larger bills and can never be planned for. There are also plans lower than the above. one such as this that is just strictly accidental coverage, which may be a good option for some as well that are not so much concerned with the costs of routine visits but are with the possibility of accidents. There are also of course plans higher than this as well that offer additional services to the plan, but for most this would be sufficient.

Making an international move can be both exciting and tiring. There are so many things to remember, that it sometimes seems as though the days run together. Just when things start to fall together, something else doesn’t work out and it’s easy to get frustrated and overwhelmed. However, one area that you will want to pay close attention to is moving your pets. To many people, their pets are like members of the family. However, every country has their own laws regarding the importation of animals. Therefore, perhaps these tips can help you get more organized as you prepare to move your pets to your new home abroad.

1) Plan ahead. Just like everything else with moving overseas, it takes time. Nothing moves too quickly in this process and moving your pets to a country overseas is no different. Get all of the information you can, write everything down as you talk to various people and most importantly, be patient.

2) Find out rather or not your pet is allowed into your new country. Some countries won’t allow pets into their country at all. Other countries will allow it, but there are certain papers, requirements, etc. Find out exactly what is involved before you plan to move your pet.

3) Find out the requirements of your new country. Every country has their own set of rules and regulations for moving pets. For example, if you move your pets to England, your pets must have a six month quarantine period, micro-chipping, blood testing and up-to-date shots. You have to take specific routes and airlines. There also has to be last minute testing for ticks and tapeworm. And all of this is just for England! So, be sure and check for your specific country. There are also some excellent websites that will give information regarding the transporting of pets to other countries.

4) See your veterinarian to get the required vaccinations, health certifications, and advice. Most countries require at least a Veterinary Import Permit or certificate from your veterinarian to prove that your pet has been vaccinated recently and is free from all parasites or infections. Also, your veterinarian is who you need to see to get a microchip implanted into your pet, which is a requirement in some countries. Be sure and get a list of every document you will need in your new country. Do not depend on your vet to know this, as something could easily be missed and the moving of your pet can be delayed.

5) Learn if there are quarantine laws in effect for incoming pets. This is probably one of the biggest factors for moving your pet that you will have to consider. Your pet may have to be quarantined for up to six months within a facility in your new country. Make sure you understand everything about your new country’s quarantine laws, as this whole process can be stressful to both pets and their owners.

6) How will you move your pet? Most people who used to move their pets sedated them to help make the flight less stressful. However, there have been some problems with sedation and even though the move may be stressful, the majority of people agree that it’s safer than sedating them. Some pets have had breathing problems due to the sedatives and some pets have even died. These are areas that you can discuss with your veterinarian.

7) Will you be using a pet travel container? It is important to have a crate that is well ventilated and is large enough for your pet to sit, stand and lie down comfortably. Also, some air lines will allow your pet to travel in the airplane’s cabin, if the cage is small enough to fit under your seat. Otherwise, your pet will need to be flown in the cargo bay, so be sure and ask about the air pressure and temperature in that area of the plane. Be sure and find out the requirements of your airlines, as they also vary in what animals they allow and the sizes of the cages.

8) Count the cost. It is pricey to ship animals overseas for many reasons. The vaccinations, certificates, quarantine costs and other unavoidable expenses can add up rather quickly. Even the airline cost for moving your pet can be expensive, depending on where the pet will be during the flight and the size of the crate.

9) Consider a pet relocation service. There are many good services that are specifically for helping you relocate your pets. Often, these services will actually save you money in the long run because they know the best deals and can lead you through the process in the right manner.

10) Your pets will be stressed too. When you finally move your pets, be sure and take along some of their favorite items, such as toys and blankets. Remember that your pet will be in a new place, so be sure and keep them in the house or fenced in so they don’t run away.

It’s true that there are many things to consider when you want to move your pets, and it can actually be discouraging. Only you know how important the companionship of your pet is to you, and that makes it all worthwhile. It helps to remember that you and your pet will soon be settled in your new home.

Your sweet and cuddly puppy can grow up to be strong and healthy, if you choose organic puppy food for it. Ensuring that your puppy eats right is your responsibility and because you love it, you must choose the best. You might be wondering what makes organic food, ‘the best’ for your puppy. In that case you surely need to read further.

You should understand that a puppy’s need for food is very different from that of an adult dog. The two reasons behind this are:

• This is your puppy’s formative period. So, you simply cannot feed it anything and everything. Just as a human baby is selectively fed during infancy, you need to do the same for your puppy.
• The digestive capacity of the puppy is not yet fully developed. So, it might not be tolerant towards every type of commercial dog food.

The problem with most commercially available brands of puppy food is their content. To increase their profitability, most manufacturers use animal by-products as the main component instead of meat. It has been proven that animal by-products are not suitable for human consumption. So, how they can be right for your puppy?

There is also the threat of chemicals such as artificial flavors and preservatives in ordinary puppy food. Unless specifically mentioned on the package, you can even find traces of pesticides and herbicides in non-organic puppy food!

Organic puppy food, on the other hand, guarantees the absence of toxins and animal by-products. So, you can be really sure that your puppy is eating healthy food and getting a daily dose of proteins and vitamins. Organic food is easy to digest and contains chicken, fish, eggs and vegetables such as carrots, spinach, celery and garlic. The better brands even contain pro-biotic elements, which aid digestion.

So, go for organic puppy food because your puppy deserves the best!

The Deerhound is one of the most ornamental of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry.  

From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief’s larder.

Head:-

The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.  

Ears:-

The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like  the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without  losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be  soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller  it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there  is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip.  Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.  

Neck and shoulders:-

The neck should be long that is, of the length  that befits the Greyhound character of the dog.  The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.

Stern:-

Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.

Eyes:-

The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel.  The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.  

Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.  

Legs and feet:-

The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.  

Coat:-

The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.  

Colour:-

Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt  that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and  lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred.  Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e.,  ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.

Height:-

From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.