Cattle

Archive for July, 2008

Very often a dog will suffer spinal damage from degenerative processes. This is usually referred to as “slipped discs,” but they are not really discs at all, and they have not really slipped. Essentially what has occurred is a loss of resiliency between the vertebrae, and so-called slipped disc can be the result of an accident or, more likely, a gradual degenerative progression that shows itself in one of the body’s weakened areas.

A contributory factor could be lack of exercise (a sedentary lifestyle in which the older dog very frequently indulges). Lack of exercise decreases blood flow to vital areas, slackening the muscles and allowing the intervertebral “shock absorbers” to become thinner and less resilient, thereby leading to possible perforation upon impact. Diet is also a factor, since the cells that make up the “shock absorbers” are being starved for nutrients, which impairs their vitality and regenerative ability.

Whether the origin lies in degeneration from lack of exercise and poor nutrition, or the slipped disc results from an auto accident or other acute calamity, rehabilitative factors remain the same. The dog needs to be put on an optimum diet containing ample amounts of vitamin C and its complex, the bioflavonoids. The dog needs to maximize his digestive potential with the use of enzyme therapy, taken both internally and by injection at the site of the ailing disc. Raw grated vegetables and sprouts should be added to the food as sources of additional live enzymes, vitamins, and minerals in a readily available form. The herb comfrey is a most valuable addition to the diet in all bone disorders. The entire matter of diagnosis, diet, and injection should be discussed thoroughly with your vet.

Exercise up and down the stairs should be stopped temporarily, as it will only serve to put more pressure on the already weakened spinal joint. The dog should remain on level ground, placing newspapers in the house if necessary, as it can be a toss-up, in severe cases, between temporary paper training and paralysis. As the dog begins to rise and walk on his own, then slow walks on level ground can be encouraged. When the dog is feeling much stronger, you can slowly reintroduce more vigorous exercise, including the resumption of climbing stairs.

Slipped discs do not suddenly appear mysteriously, and they will not subside mysteriously either. If you are taking proper precautions with diet and exercise, the chances of your older dog suffering slipped discs are happily minimized. Should you also take vital precautions and not allow your dog out without a leash, then you are eliminating the chances of his getting a slipped disc through his being struck by a car. Remember that a slipped disc can lead to paralysis and impairment of vital motor and excretory functions and this can most certainly lead to death.

Iguanas are usually small in size. But sometimes they are so huge in size that they would require more space to roam about. Thus you need to learn to build a proper cage.

The aspect to be given importance is the size. The cage must be very spacious because they are reptiles who originally belong to the wild life.

There are people who believe that the growth of Iguana can be restricted to the size of the cage. This concept seems silly and is definitely untrue. The growth of Iguanas is faster in the first quarter and slows down gradually.

So it is better to make sure that proper space and resources are available before you buy an Iguana. Consider this; a newly born Iguana can fill a 60 gallon spaced aquarium in just a year’s healthy growth.

A small and tiny cage is sufficient for an Iguana from its birth to a period of six months. A tiny aquarium is enough but you should be mentally ready to invest for the second time because after 6 months of age Iguana grows at a faster pace.

The humidity and temperature of the cage must also be considered before you build one. Iguanas are generally cold blooded so it must be ensured that the cage is warm enough and at the same time not too hot.

The installation of a basking point with temperature varying from 89 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit must not be forgotten and air temperature must be around 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Different parts of the cage should have different temperatures for the regulation of air and for the stability of body temperature.

Fluorescent tubes or mercury vapor lamps can be used to provide such conditions. The usage of hot rocks is also suggested. This idea is definitely against vegetarians. If they burn Iguana then it might culminate to severe bruises and infection or even death.

The cage should be assisted with proper humidity. A humidity range of 65 to 70 will do for an appropriate Iguana cage. A humidifier can do the job of providing necessary level of humidity. If not affordable, spraying water at regular intervals would be just fine.

The humidity can also be controlled by placing a big bowl of water in the cage.

The digestion process is assisted by certain lighting conditions in the cage. This helps in their survival. Sunrays contain ultra violet light that assists the growth of the Iguana. They perform several functions given below.

UVB and UVA lights are required in large amounts for their survival. The UVB helps in producing the vitamin D3 that is an important component required for the digestion process. The UVA promotes their natural behavior.

The most accessible and cheap way to provide UV rays is by letting sunlight into the cage. By providing windows the can be exposed to sunlight. These are certain aspects to note.

It is tough to create such a cage like that of a biodiversity at home but if these help in their healthy survival, they can as well be provided happily.

In case you decide to have a giant Iguana as a pet then one has to be mentally prepared for the arrangements he or she has to make. They are already on the verge of becoming extinct and hence buying them and not treating them well will not be fair on our part. So decide well before you are sure to have an Iguana as a pet.

                                                       Description

The Borzoi is a giant breed similar as Greyhound breed.Borzoi have long silky fat and wavy coat,they have long hairs on the neck and tail than other body.They are found in many colours,there is no specific restrictions.

The Borzoi is also known as Russian Wolfhound, Russian Sighthound.

Temperament

The borzoi is sweet and intelligent breed,they are very loyal to their owner,they love to play with their family,Borzoi breed will no recommended for every family,because they are not good with other small animals including Cat,Rabbit and other small animal.Borzoi can kill them before you take any action,Borzoi breed is OK with children but this is iffy.It should be difficult to trail borzoi,because he/she seems one man dog.they are quite dogs,they bark rarely.The Borzoi are very fast breed,they can live with children alone,but they doesn’t like roughly,they need high nutrition diet for their grow and health.

Height & Weight.

Weight: male: 75-105, female: 60-85 lbs
Height: male: 28, female: 26 inches

Care /Grooming

The Borzoi has a long silky coat with curls,so you should be brushed daily ti get rid off with broken hairs,the borzoi is giant breed so it should be difficult to bathe them,always use dry shampoo when needed.Always brushed his/her teeth twice a week to prevent mouth smell,and other mouth infections,you can buy Tooth paste and Tooth brush specially design for dogs at any good pet shop.

Health problem

Borzoi are very strong breed,so they have very less health problems,Good diet with full of nutrient prevent health problems from them,Most of health problem is this breed are  life-endangering distension of the stomach with gas, retinal atrophy (inherited disease of the retina that can cause vision loss and blindness), heart disease, and Osteosarcoma (bone cancer).

Exercise

As we say first is not good for apartment,they need plenty exercise including daily walk,Daily 90 minutes for exercise is enough for their healthy living.

Living condition

The Borzoi are large breed,they may not good for tight places,they need plenty exercise daily,A big yard could be better for their living,they can jump a six foot fence.

Life Span

The healthy borzoi Dog can live near around 10 and 12 years with proper diet and exercise.

Origin

According to some survey first Borzoi was brought Arabia to Russia in 1600’s,The first borzoi was registered with American Kennel Association in 189

General dog grooming is essential to the good health and well-being of your dog. General dog grooming involves regularly combing and brushing the coat and fur of your dog. It also involves bathing your dog, trimming its nails as well as checking and taking care of its eyes, ears and mouth. If you take the time to train a dog while it is young for dog grooming, the animal will become use to you doing whatever you have to do while grooming your dog. However, with patience and time you can also teach an older dog to enjoy being groomed.

You can groom your dog at home yourself if you like, since this can save you money. However, if you so choose, you can also hire a dog groomer to groom your dog for you. There are various issues you will need to attend to while grooming your dog, these may include:

– Brushing or combing its coat

– Bathing your dog

– Trimming its nails

– Ear care

– Eye care

– Teeth care

Brushing or Combing

Brushing or combing the coat or fur of your dog is necessary to keep the coat clean and healthy. You should consider brushing your dog daily as part of your routine dog care. Brushing or combing the coat will help remove any dirt, grime or debris. It also aids in getting rid of old hair and dead skin. Brushing the coat will help to spread the natural oils of the skin throughout the coat. This is useful for keeping the coat tangle-free as well as giving the dog a much better appearance. Dogs feel good when their coats look good. You can brush or comb the coat of long haired dogs and short haired dogs to keep them looking and feeling their best.

Bathing Your Dog

Before bathing your dog, you need to brush its coat to remove any dirt, debris, dead skin and tangles from the hair. You will need to provide the dog with secure footing such as a bath towel or a bath mat while washing the dog in the sink if it is small or in the tub for larger dogs. You may consider placing some cotton balls in its ears to prevent getting water in them while bathing the dog. Use warm water for bathing and rinsing the dog, as you take care not to spray water in its face. Make sure that you use a good dog shampoo. While using small amounts of shampoo you will wash the dog from head to tail, while avoiding the possibility of getting soap in its eyes. Wash your dog thoroughly and then rinse to remove any traces of shampoo from its coat. After rinsing you then shampoo from the dog, you will then towel dry your dog. If you begin at an early age, you can train a dog to have its hair dried while using a blow dryer.

While trimming its nails take care not to trim above the area where the nails begin to curve. Check your pet regularly for eye and ear infections. Caring for dogs teeth is essential, you can use an old used toothbrush; however, you need to use dog toothpaste to brush his or her teeth.

The Boa Constrictor, an in particular the Common Boa (Boa constrictor imperator) is a popular snake amongst herpetoculturists. The common boa has a long lifespan, capable of reaching more than 30 years in captivity, so is a very long term commitment. They require specific heating and housing, but if cared for properly they make excellent pets. Here is a boa care sheet explaining the basic care requirements of these extraordinary snakes.

Size: Adult boas can easily reach 8-10 feet in length, which means that you need to provide a substantial enclosure. A vivarium of 72x24x24 inches is ideal for adult boa constrictors.

Food: Boa constrictors are nocturnal hunters. In their natural habitat they feed on small mammals and little rodents. Lizards, birds and bats also common prey, but in captivity there is no need to provide such a varied diet. Mice for juvenile boas and bigger rodents and rabbits for adults make a perfect and easy to provide diet. The boa needs one prey every ten to fifteen days when it is adult and one per week as a neonate.

New born boas will start on pinkie or fuzzy mice, and the prey size should be increased as your boa grows, but in any case you need to remember that the size of the prey should not exceed the size of the widest part of the snake. Overfeeding, or ‘power feeding’, to increase growth rate should be avoided. While this can increase the snake’s growth rate, but it will significantly reduce its lifespan. Boas are prone to obesity in captivity so care should be taken to limit the amount and size of prey items offered.

You should also keep in mind that as with all snake the common boa needs fresh water. It is essential to provide fresh and clean water on a daily basis.

Substrates: Many people tend to place wooden substrates in the snake’s vivarium, considering them to be close to the natural ambiance. These however are prone to harboring parasites such as ticks and mites, are difficult to clean, and can lead to digestive problems if ingested. A much better solution is to use paper towels or newspapers which can be quickly and easily changed at little or no cost. A solid brand should also be provided as many boas will climb if given the chance.

Handling: Avoid handling newly acquired boas for a few days to allow them to get used to their new surroundings. Once settled in, begin handling for just a few minutes at a time and slowly your boa will become quite tolerant and docile. Most adult boa constrictors are easy to handle, slow moving, and unlikely to bite. They are however large and strong, so always be aware that they are potentially a dangerous animal. When handling a large boa always ensure that a second person is nearby as a safety precaution.