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As mentioned, an unsightly protein scum may appear on the surface of the water. This is the result of dissolved organic waste separating out and attaching itself to bubbles of air. A foam fractionator’s, sometimes known as a protein skimmer, is a controlled mechanical way of removing the protein, or dissolved organic carbon, from the water.

In one design of protein skimmer, fine bubbles of air are injected at the bottom of the device and as they rise through the water, they collect or adsorb the organic carbon on their surface. This action prevents the bubbles from bursting and foam collects on the water surface, from where it is skimmed off to waste.

Switch off foam fractionators when you use a pond medication, otherwise they will remove the medication from the water as well. These devices have been available to the aquarium keeper for many years and some homemade designs work well on ponds. The ozone kills free swimming or motile bacteria and algal cells, producing clearer and cleaner water.

Using an ozonizer would render an ultraviolet light clarifier unnecessary. These are known as anaerobic bacteria and they thrive in oxygen depleted water. If you use an anaerobic filter, it will require very careful monitoring. When construction is complete, the pond and filter system should be filled through a water meter to ascertain its total working volume.

Knowing this figure is important, because it enables you to calculate accurate dosage when the pond needs to be medicated. If a water change is required, a check on the meter reading will enable, say, a 10% change to be made accurately. If possible, plumb a meter into the pond main water supply so that you can always monitor the water usage.

Allow the system to circulate for a few days to ensure there are no leaks.

The idea of a Siberian husky pops in mind whenever one considers adopting a dog which would suit the general needs of the family. Indeed, with its gentle nature and liveliness, Siberian huskies are suitable even for families with small children. When considering whether to get a Siberian husky, it is important for families to carefully evaluate if they have the time and ability to care for the dog in the first place. The fact is, Siberian huskies do require a substantial amount of care in order to ensure their good health and physical well-being.

The first step to caring for your Siberian husky would be to provide adequately for its nutritional needs. Generally, Siberian huskies require ample supplies of fresh food and water for their growth. To meet the dog’s nutritional needs, ample supplies of white meat and fish is necessary. Siberian huskies require a great deal of protein and fat in their diet in order to prevent growth of hip dysplasia, which is a common illness found in the Siberian husky breed. High quality fresh food is preferable to commercially available food for the case of the Siberian husky. Also, supplement your Siberian husky’s diet with ample amounts of fish oil. Canned sardines provide a relatively cheap source to this and contain high levels of Omega 3 required for the husky to develop healthy coats of fur and nails.

Subsequently, it is important to take your Siberian husky to regular health checkups at the local vet. Checkups are important as they allow the vet to monitor and assess the overall health of your Siberian husky. Vets also provide valuable advice on many issues regarding your Siberian husky. This ranges from nutritional needs to training needs. Regular checkups are also an insurance against various forms of dog-related diseases. In general, such diseases are easily treated if diagnosed at an early stage. Thus, checkups are an essential part of taking care of your Siberian husky.

You would also need to make sure that your Siberian husky’s needs for affiliation are met. Siberian huskies are animals that mix around well in packs. A lonely Siberian husky would often resort to mischief such as digging holes in your garden in order to entertain itself. You could either choose to get another Siberian husky or choose another pet altogether, such as a cat as its companion. However, it is important to note that companionship for your Siberian husky should start when your husky is a puppy in order to facilitate ease of interaction with the other husky or pet. In any case, Siberian huskies are relatively well-mannered are should not have much difficulties in getting along with other animals.

At the end of the day, time, commitment and effort are of utmost importance when it comes to caring for your Siberian husky. Would-be dog owners who are unsure of their priorities should not get themselves a Siberian husky as it would often only lead to suffering and perhaps even abandonment for the dog. But for those who are able to make a firm commitment, you would definitely find the time spent with your Siberian husky to be intrinsically satisfying in the long run.

Ball Pythons are now drawn from the wild and sold as pets. Taking care of ball pythons is expensive and requires patience.

Ball pythons or python regius are found along the edges of Western and Central Africa’s forest lands. They are either on the trees or grounds. Although they are termed as royal pythons in the European countries, they are referred to as ball pythons in the US because of the curling habits. They tend to curl up and pull their heads firmly in the center when nervous
Ball pythons are crepuscular, meaning they are more active at dusk and dawn. Similar to most pythons, ball pythons are gentle and curious snakes. They also have anal spurs like the ones found in boas.

These lone claws that appear on the sides of their vents are formerly their hind legs. The snakes lost their legs in evolution millions of years ago. Males possess longer spurs and smaller heads compared to the females.
If you plan to have one as a pet, it is best to buy a captive-born. If not, then go for well-feeding juvenile, adult or sub-adult breed.

In selecting a ball python, select one with a firm clear skin, clean vents, round-shaped body, and clear eyes. When handled, it should actively flick its tongue.

In selecting a housing for your hatchling, a 10 gallon glass tank with a hinged glass top and fixed screens should do the trick. Take note that snakes are regarded as escape artists. Ball pythons are cunning and powerful in breaking out. Hence, for a young adult, you need a 20 gallon glass tank. For a full adult, you need a 30 gallon glass tanks already.
When selecting an appropriate substrate, you can initially use paper towels. It can be easily replaced or removed when soiled. If your Ball Python is imported, you would need to monitor its feces and check it for mites.

Once established, use a fir bark or shredded cypress. Never use aspen and pine shaving because this can lodge in your snake’s mouth while it eats. It may cause respiratory and other serious problems.

You need to monitor these shavings closely. When it gets wet and soiled, pull it out immediately, to prevent the growth of fungus and bacteria.
Place a hiding area for your ball python. You can buy a half-log at any pet store. An alternative can be an upside down plastic opaque container or an empty cardboard box.

Keep the tank warm, 80 to 85 degrees F in the daytime. At night, keep it at 73 to 75 degrees F. You can buy reptile heating pads at any drug store. As an alternative, you can buy incandescent light bulbs in metal and porcelain reflector hoods. Never use a hot rock because bBall pythons are prone to thermal burns.

Make sure your snake gets ambient humidity. You can check this using a hygrometer. Get this up to 50%. When your snake sheds, it needs higher humidity. You can increase the enclosure humidity to about 60-65%. By bathing your snake in a warm bath when its eyes clear, they will completely shed in 24 hours.

For hatchlings, you can feed it with a 10 day old mouse. For the larger ones, you can feed them larger pinkie rats or pre-killed mice.
Always provide a fresh bowl of water inside the tank.

Ball Pythons can live for many years. Amidst coming of age, they need to remain active and alert. In captivity, most snakes die for reasons related to their care and maintenance. Some causes include contact with lighting and heating elements, improper temperature, lack of needed veterinary treatment and care, no access to regular water and careless handling among others.