Cattle

Archive for June, 2011

Watching a dog perform his obedience routine with no lead attached to his collar is a thing of beauty! It appears to be magic, the way he anticipates his owner’s moves and wants to just BE there, exactly on the money. Here is how to achieve that doggy ballet of movements.

One secret to good obedience training is never to give your dog the chance to disobey. Make sure he understands the command and what you want him to do, and move toward it with baby steps so he always ALWAYS succeeds. Your happy praise at every turn is what he lives for.

When he is at that comfortable stage on lead where he yawns at every new command, this means he is sure of it and relaxed, then it’s time to move on to removing his lead. This will cause a little anxiety at first because his lead is his life line and guide to pleasing you. So make sure everything you are about to show him off-lead is something he knows VERY well with the lead attached.

On-lead heeling, turning and stopping is very smooth and controlled. Before starting off, instead of hooking the lead into the ring, slip the entire lead through his collar, not in the ring, and wrap the end around your hand so you can eat it up as you walk, until the lead slides completely out of the dog’s collar. He will barely notice this, just keep walking with no change in gait or tone of your voice, act like nothing new is happening.

When you come to a stop and your dog sits predictably at your side like always, pause a moment then PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE! Your dog will look at you funny, as if to say, “What’s the big deal? We do this all the time”. It’s quite funny. That’s when you know it has worked the way it should and your dog has made the transition effortlessly.

As you work, keep the dog close at hand, you do not want him to get the idea he can run off. If he makes the slightest off move, take his collar by the live ring and tug. Remember those little tugs that he dislikes so much he learned quickly how to stay in the exact right spot? Remind him that off-lead has the same controls, so you must be vigilant. If he backslides, go back to on-lead. He will learn quickly that he prefers the independence of off-lead work and to get it he must obey your every command.

As to the long line “Come” command, go back to the short line and leave it on the ground so you can grab it if he does not come to you in a timely fashion. Give him no room to think about disobeying. Gradually extend the distance until he is coming to you at a run totally off-lead. He loves this!

With patience and vigilance, your dog will be just as dependable off-lead as he became on-lead. And you both will enjoy it more!

Dogs and Cats. Eternal enemies, right? Through proper dog obedience training you can teach your animals to live together.

The first mistake that most pet owners make when introducing their pet dogs and cats is to allow them to make their own introductions. This is a mistake! As I stated above, these two species are eternal enemies. You can’t just set one down near the other and expect great results. (Ok, I know that can happen and does happen, but my job here is to teach you about dog training. My version of training calls for prevention with dogs and cats rather than creating a problem and then being forced to fix it. As Mom used to say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.) There is a good deal of prevention that should be used before allowing your dogs and cats to co-exist.

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a home with a dog or vice versa I want you to start out the same way. Start out by using your trusty dog crate. Put your dog in the crate and allow the cat to be in the same room. There are several possible outcomes to this action :
1. Your dog shows complete indifference. This is ideal. If your dog behaves like this you will have a quick transition.
2. Your dog shows fear. This is not ideal but it will make the transition easier than some other outcomes.
3. Your dog shows nervousness and anxiety. He whines, he paces in the crate, paws at the door of the crate, etc. This behavior tells you that he wants out. There is something about that cat that is exciting and he wants to know what it is.
4. Your dog shows overt aggression. He barks, claws at the door of the crate, and he knows exactly what he wants to do with that cat. This is going to be the toughest dog to train, but it can be done.

For the first few days don’t let your dogs and cats near each other. Keep the dog in the crate. This doesn’t mean you need to keep him in the crate 24/7. When you want him out of the crate just make sure that your cat is shut off in another bedroom to avoid contact. What you hope to accomplish with this action is to train your dog to be indifferent to the cat. You want your dog to view the cat as ‘background noise’. The cat is inconsequential, the cat doesn’t matter, there is nothing interesting or exciting about the cat. In other words, your dog is safely tucked away in the crate and casually observes the cat move around the house. For categories 1 and 2 this will be simple. It will take no more than a day or two for your dog to think of your cat as just another ‘thing’ in the house. Categories 3 and 4 will take more training and time.

For categories 3 and 4 you need to attach a negative association to showing cat aggression. To do this, get a spray bottle. Fill the bottle with either plain water, water mixed with lemon juice, or for very stubborn dogs, water with vinegar. At this point, your dog is still tucked away safely in the crate. The next part of training will be conducted while you are sitting near the crate, ready for action. The instant your dog shows aggression (barks at the cat, claws at the door, whines in frustration, etc.) toward the cat spray him in the face with your spray bottle. Every time he shows aggression spray him with the bottle. When he isn’t showing aggression give him soft praise, “Good boy”.

Make sure that your dog never gets a chance to show aggression toward the cat without having a bad experience. This means that you must always be ready with the spray bottle or make sure the cat isn’t near the dog. If you aren’t vigilant and your dog has the chance to show aggression with no adverse consequence, you are training him to show cat aggression.

If you are consistent with this exercise you will soon notice that your dog will show less and less aggression while in the crate, it just isn’t worth the squirt in the face for him. You are on your way to getting your dogs and cats to co-exist.

When your feel comfortable that your dog is indifferent to the cat move on to the next step. As I said, for categories 1 and 2 this is probably one or two days after beginning the crate training. For categories 3 and 4 get your dog to the point where he is indifferent and maintains that attitude for several days if not a week.

The next step is to get your dog out of the crate and get those dogs and cats together at last! You are going to move slowly, though. Put your dog training collar and leash on your dog and make sure that he is always wearing it around the house. Keep your dog near you and allow your cat to be in the room. If your dog makes any move whatsoever to chase the cat, bark at the cat, or perform any of the stereotypical behaviors that dogs and cats do, give him a very strong correction with the leash. You want this leash correction to be a very memorable one so it must be very strong. You want to form a very negative association toward cat aggression.

Be consistent with this training. If you do this properly you will notice that your dog has less and less of a desire to chase after or bark at the cat. As you notice your dog changing his behavior give him more and more freedom by allowing him to be closer to the cat and further away from you. Eventually you will phase out the use of the dog training collar and leash.

Even if your dog isn’t showing aggressive tendencies, never let him chase after the cat in the house, even playfully.

Even some of the hardest to train dogs will respond to the above method. There exist, however, certain dogs that have such strong prey drive that only drastic measures will cure them of their desire to chase and kill cats. For these dogs I employ an electric dog training collar.

Read the instruction manual on proper fitting for your electric dog training collar. With a stubborn dog that needs an electric collar the method is simple. With the collar on his neck and turned on to a high level of stimulus you are going to correct your dog every time he even looks at the cat. As your dog even sneaks a glance at your cat press the button to deliver the correction. Don’t say ‘no’, don’t react in any way, just correct him for looking at the cat. Do this as many times as it takes. Let’s examine this from your dog’s point of view. He wants to get to the cat, wants to chase, wants to kill. But the very act of looking at the cat causes him pain. You don’t tell him anything so he doesn’t associate the correction with you. He soon will learn to believe that the cat is ‘evil’ and he had better not even look at it because it the act of looking causes pain.

As with all training, you must be very consistent. Your dog must never have a successful chance to even chase or want to chase the cat. Be consistent, though, and soon your dogs and cats will be able to co-exist.

You love your ferret, and you can do anything for him/her to have all the worldly comforts and enjoyment. You love playing with ferret; you give him/her nourished food; you give exciting toys to play; but amongst all the things, do you have any idea about how to train your ferret!

Ferret needs training, and this is very essential to meet normal chores efficiently. However, you need to train your ferret in an organized manner, so that your ferret can remain clean and tidy, and smart. Here are some of the effective ways that would help you to in training the ferret:

• Be patient when you give the ferret litter training. As compare to the cats, ferrets are not fast learners, and you need to spend quality time before he/she gets accustomed to using litter box. While choosing a liter box, make sure that you choose the box which is safe for the ferret. Simply reject the litter boxes made from cedar, pine etc., as these may cause problems in the respiratory tract.
• Bring the droppings of your ferret and show to him/her in order to give a fair idea on where to eliminate, defecate or urinate next time. Irrespective of the fact whether ferret is baby or full adult, you are likely to face the problems when you provide him/her bathroom training. You tend to get irritated while training him. But, no matter in whatever way the ferret behaves, you have to be patient.
• As the part of training, you should be punctual in washing your ferret’s cage. This is very necessary because when you wash the cage with water you are ensuring to minimize the odor coming from their droppings and urine.  Further, cleaning the cage gives a refreshing and healthy atmosphere for ferret’s stay.
• Place litter trays in specific areas inside, and around your home, in order to efficiently potty train the puppy. Whenever the puppy eliminates in the tray, reward or retreat him/her accordingly. Giving your ferret all the recognition if he/she does it correctly will encourage him/her to the job in the same manner and correctly.
• If litter box training is not serving in the rightful means for the ferret, then, try out paper training procedures. Place the newspapers in a segregated way around the house in those places, where the ferret can eliminate the waste easily. Paper training is also advantageous to your means as you’d be able to throw the newspaper easily by folding it. However, be cautious that you use old newspapers.

Even after training the ferrets, some of the problems still exist, and these problems arise out of personality differences. Follow these tips:

• Ferret should be brought out of the cage when he/she is eliminating
• Adamant and stubborn ferrets should be thrown in the company of trained and matured ferrets to impart potty training effectively. Old ferrets will not stand the nuances of young ferrets.
• Big and small litter box should be adjusted inside the ferret’s cage with the help of wires and clips. Keep the small litter box inside the big litter box.
• Keep the food in the areas where the ferret litters. This is to ensure that ferret doesn’t eliminate anywhere in the home.

Be determined and committed, should you decide to train your loveable and adorable ferret.

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Hydrotherapy or water therapy is great way to provide a low impact exercise for your dog, with or without joint pain. For dogs with joint pain and arthritis, regular exercise like running or walking can be painful due to amount of weight that your dog’s joints must support. Exercise in a pool, a lake or the ocean can be a great alternative since the buoyancy of the water takes much of the strain off the joints that is normally caused by their body weight. Swimming can help your pet with range of motion, strengthening, endurance and general health.

Exercise has been proven to help pets by reducing joint pain and stiffness while increasing flexibility, muscle strength, cardiac fitness and endurance. It can also help with weight reduction which can be a cause of some joint pain.

Talk to your veterinarian if you think your pet may benefit from this type of exercise. Hydro therapy may not be an option for dogs that have a fear of water. It is also not recommended for dogs with certain fractures and open wounds.

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